Plastic Passion

The early success of the Defiant’s unique armament became it’s liability.

The Boulton Paul Defiant was a curious sort of fighter. The British airplane was designed around a single motorized turret with a mean-looking set of four .303-inch Browning machine guns.

The idea—four machine guns mounted in a powered turret, spitting out 1,200 rounds per minute each—probably looked good on paper. It packed enough punch to bring down any Luftwaffe bomber. For a moment, during the desperate summer of 1940, it did just that. However, the lack of any forward-firing guns was quickly discovered to be the Achilles’ heel of the heavy fighter. While a number of turret gunners became aces during the early days of the war, the airplane ultimately was relegated to service as a trainer. A number of Defiants were put into service as night fighters, a role in which it had some success bringing down enemy bombers.

The Kit

The 1/48th-scale Airfix release is not simply an upscaled version of their retooled 1/72nd-scale kit; it’s a nicely detailed and well-engineered model of this interesting fighter.

Start with the cockpit. There is plenty of detail straight out of the box and it needs only an aftermarket set of seat belts and harness to give it that little extra oomph. Paint the interior an RAF standard interior green. The pilot’s seat should be a reddish brown to simulate the color of the Bakelite material many of the early seats were made from.

It’s All About the Turret

The turret assembly is a tiny gem all by itself. Most of the turrets were painted entirely black, with the exception of a gunmetal color for the machine guns. There is nice interior detail and an option to show the turret opened up. If you decide to show off the turret interior, do not attach the two sliding access doors (clear parts E12 and 13) until the end of the build. Once the turret is complete, set it aside.

With the cockpit complete, carefully bring together the fuselage halves. Take care to dry-fit pieces and pay close attention to the fit between the cockpit and fuselage. Use clamps and modelers tape to help seal the seams, and set aside to dry.

The wing has five major sections broken down along panel lines that will need little filler. Horizontal stabilizers, rudder and ailerons are molded as separate pieces, enabling the modeler to attach the parts in a more natural pose. Paint the interior of the landing gear bays a natural metal color. Assemble the wings and it’s time to move on to the next step.

After bringing the completed wing together with the fuselage, start masking for the camouflage scheme.

Early Wartime Camouflage 

In the late 1930s RAF Fighter Command had units paint the undersides of their aircraft with a split black and white scheme in order to aid in identifying friendly aircraft from the ground. The port side (left) would be painted black and the starboard wing white. Many units interpreted the rule to mean that the black and white scheme split down the centerline of the fuselage. Others left some areas in a natural metal and only painted the wings in black and white. Markings for this fighter reflect the latter approach, with the wings painted black and white and the forward and rear fuselage remaining natural metal. The upper surfaces were painted in a standard RAF pattern of dark earth and dark green.

Once the careful ritual of masking and painting is complete, give the model a coat of clear gloss and let it dry overnight. Mask and paint the cockpit canopy, assemble the main landing gear and paint the landing gear doors. Be careful to paint the correct door the correct color!

Now is a good time to start adding decals. This Defiant is marked as an aircraft from No. 264 Squadron based at RAF Kirton-in-Lindsey, Lincolnshire, during the early summer of 1940. Add a coat of clear flat to protect your work.

Attach the landing gear, propeller and engine exhausts. A light wash will bring out panel lines, simulate oil stains and add a little weathering. A sharp silver colored pencil can be used to add subtle paint chipping.

Final Assembly

Carefully, very carefully, install the turret. The fit is tight. Keep an eye on the four machine gun barrels. Even the best of us have had one snap, bringing the project to a dead stop. If you have elected to show off the turret interior, now is the time to add the two clear pieces (E12 and 13) that make up the entrance hatch to the guns. Attach the windscreen and the rest of the canopy. The landing lights in the wings are a two-piece affair. Paint the rear of the light bulb (E2) a chrome silver. The color will shine through the rest of the clear piece. The clear cover (E4) goes on next. Add the pitot tube and the two antennas along the underside of the fuselage.

Your Boulton Paul Defiant is finally ready to take its place next to the other Battle of Britain stalwarts in your collection.

Colonel Francis Gabreski had shot down 28 enemy aircraft but one last strafing run put his P-47 Thunderbolt into a field and “Gabby” into a POW camp.

Building the classics

The Monogram 1/48th-scale Republic P-47D Thunderbolt first hit hobby shops in 1967. Over the years the kit has become a favorite with modelers. Good detail and relatively easy construction have helped the model hold its own against competitors costing three times as much. With a little extra effort, you can produce a very nice addition for your display shelf using this kit. 

Start with the cockpit, painting it interior chromate green. The instrument consoles are black, so you can pick out dials and switches in white. A light dry brush of aluminum for the seat and a set of seatbelts from the spares box add interest to the tight cockpit. Be careful with the gunsight molded into the fuselage halves; it’s easy to snap the piece off. Removing the gunsight and reattaching it later is a good option. Complete the fuselage with the cockpit tub securely in place and set aside to dry.

Next, assemble the wings. It’s a simple two-piece affair, but take special care with the four .50-caliber machine gun barrels molded into the wing, as they can easily break off. It’s a good idea to have a spare set on hand. This kit also has a pair of hardpoints molded into the lower piece of each wing. To get a cleaner profile, a little surgery is required. With the pylons removed, fill and sand the area. Once the wings are assembled, cement them to the fuselage. 

With the basic shape of the P-47 complete, it’s time for paint. The 56th Fighter Group began painting its fighters in camouflage colors in May 1944. Using existing Royal Air Force supplies, the unit began preparing for operations over France. Camouflage patterns were left up to the individual units, and a variety of styles resulted. The 61st Fighter Squadron Commander, Colonel Francis “Gabby” Gabreski, had many of his squadron’s fighters painted in what he called a “Luftwaffe” style. The more random and mottled paint scheme was similar to what they had seen on their German adversaries’ airplanes. Upper surfaces were medium sea gray and dark green, while the underside of the big fighter remained a natural metal. 

Gabreski’s Final Mount

Our model sports the markings of the P-47D flown by Colonel Gabreski on a July 20, 1944, ground-attack mission. During a strafing run at a Luftwaffe airfield, Gabreski made “one last pass” that was just low enough to clip the ground, damaging the fighter enough that he had to crash-land in a farmer’s field. Captured, he spent the rest of the war as a POW. 

This version of Monogram’s classic came with a set of Gabby’s markings, but the decals were showing their age (the kit is 46 years old!). The better choice is an aftermarket set. Techmod, a specialty decal company from Poland, produces a number of well-researched markings sets for a number of famous Polish aces. Set 48006 has markings for Gabreski’s last mount. 

With the decals on the model, spray a coat of flat clear varnish and set it aside. Complete the landing gear and the specially designed 200-gallon external fuel tank. This larger oval-shaped tank gave the P-47 longer “legs” and still had adequate ground clearance.

Attach the landing gear, propeller and clear two-piece bubble canopy and Gabby’s P-47D “Jug” is ready for the display shelf.

The Mitsubishi A6M Zero came as a shock to many in the west. Quick and incredibly maneuverable it could outfly nearly everything in the sky. The fighter dominated opponents in China and Burma early in the war. It’s “introduction” to American airmen came on December 7, 1941.  

Petty Officer 1^st Class Takeshi Hirano was part of the first wave of the attack in an element of three fighters from the carrier Akagi. After strafing Hickam Field, including some of the B-17s trying desperately to land, Hirano’s Zero was peppered by machine gun fire from the ground.

The pilot struggled to bring his damaged fighter down but clipped a number of trees and crashed into the entrance of Fort Kamehameha’s ordinance machine shop, killing Hirano. His was one of only 29 aircraft brought down during the attack.This particular Zero would become the object of intense scrutiny by US intelligence officers looking for kinks in the vaunted fighter’s reputation. 

The Kit

Tamiya, Inc. produces one of the most accurate scale models of the Mitsubishi A6M2 Type 21. First released in 1973 the 1/48th scale kit still holds up well against some of the higher priced models. It’s an ideal kit for the beginner, simple, well-engineered and easy to build. The more experienced modeler will be more than tempted to add some extra detail.

Construction starts with building and painting the multipart cockpit, which comes with an optional pilot figure. Tamiya cockpit green (XF-71) takes the guesswork out of what to paint the floor, sidewalls and instrument panel. A decal reproduces the dials and indicators well. The seat is flat aluminum, a belt harness from an aftermarket detail set is a nice touch. (Note: Japanese naval fighters used a single diagonal shoulder strap with a standard lap belt.) 

With the cockpit complete, paint the 940-hp Nakajima Sakae Type 12 engine flat aluminum, then use a black wash to bring out the details. Next, glue together the two-piece cowling and paint it with a mixture of semigloss black (FS-27031) and a few drops of cobalt blue, to duplicate the cowling color reportedly seen on many WWII Japanese carrier planes. Glue the completed engine into the cowling and set it aside to dry.

Next, join the fuselage parts together. Slip the finished cockpit through the fuselage’s underside, making sure it is seated correctly before applying dabs of glue to hold it in place. Next add the completed wing. The fit here is very good, but there is still a small gap at the wing root that will need attention. 

For this model we’ll add an extra detail. The type 21 Zero was the first version to have folding wings (more accurately, folding wing “tips.”). It was a new addition meant to help maximize space aboard the carrier. The Czech company Eduard makes a great resin detail set of the folded wingtips. Designed for their own A6M2 Zero kit, it will need a little extra surgery and sanding, but it can easily be made to fit the Tamiya kit. It’s a great addition to the model. Cement the horizontal stabilizers in place and set the assembly aside.  

Now that the basic construction is complete, it’s time to check over your work and fill and sand any seams. Most imperfections can be smoothed over with an application of Tamiya’s surface primer. 

Camouflage 

The A6M2 Zeros that took part in the Pearl Harbor raid were painted Imperial Japanese Navy gray-green overall. This color is available in both a spray can (Tamiya AS-29) or bottle (XF-76). Before painting, stuff facial tissue into the cockpit and wheel wells to protect them from overspray. 

The wheel wells and the inside of the main landing gear doors should be painted the same interior metallic blue-green as the cockpit. The landing gear legs are semigloss black, with dark brown “rubber” colored tires and aluminum hubs. The propellers on Pearl Harbor Zeros were unpainted aluminum, with red warning stripes near the tips. The back of the propeller was painted a flat deep brown to reduce glare for the pilot. 

The fabric-covered moveable surfaces, ailerons, rudder and horizontal stabilizers were painted a gray primer. It was thought that the weight of an additional layer of paint would alter the delicate weight and balance and effect performance. Mask off these sections and paint them a slightly darker gray.

After all the painting is complete, apply a coat of gloss varnish to provide a smooth surface for the decals to adhere to.

Bringing the Zero to Life

Hirano’s aircraft had simple, standard markings. The kit markings work well and settle into the nooks and crannies with a little decal softener. The tail number, AI-154 was cobbled together from other Zero decals that were in “the stash.” Add a mild amount of weathering, soot from the exhaust ports and a mild bit of fuel and oil staining are all that’s needed. Once the decals are complete, give the fighter a light coat of a clear flat varnish and put it aside. 

On to the canopy. There is an option for an enclosed one-piece canopy, but you’ll want to show off that cockpit detail so opt for the three-piece open version. Painting the cockpit canopy frames will be easier if you mask and paint the horizontal ribs first, then the vertical frames. Attach the clear parts with white glue and finish off your model by gluing the landing gear, gear doors, arresting hook and tail wheel into place. Don’t forget the pitot tube and small weights on the top and bottom of each of the ailerons. Last but not least, add that folding wingtip and Takeshi Hirano’s Mitsubishi A6M2 is ready for its sortie into history.   

The retooled Airfix 1/48th scale Supermarine Spitfire Mk.I finds its spot on the workbench.

Even though he died in 1937, long before the summer of 1940, aircraft designer R.J. Mitchell is often described as a hero of the Battle of Britain. Indeed, his Supermarine Spitfire is considered a veritable “saviour” of the country. It’s not surprising then that when the British model company Airfix produced its first aircraft kit in 1955, it was a Spitfire. Fifty-nine years later Airfix released another Spitfire, totally redesigned and retooled for the modern modeler.

The kit was released as a Battle of Britain–era Mk.I in early 2015. It sports a very detailed cockpit, options to show off the fighter’s eight .303-caliber Browning machine guns and no fewer than three different propellers, including the early two-bladed Aero-Products “Watts” propeller. It’s safe to say that this new Spit will be released in a number of different versions.

First bit of advice: Follow the directions. If there ever was a kit that required patience, this is it. Do the research, study the instructions and follow the steps. Carefully dry-fit parts. The fit is very good, but cleaning up parts is essential. The kit is a challenge, but the results are worth it. 

Start with the cockpit. There is lot of detail here and it really needs only an aftermarket Sutton harness and seatbelts to add that nice extra touch. Paint the cockpit RAF interior green. A reddish brown color works for the seat itself and a darker leather brown color for the seat padding. Paint the control panel black and use the cockpit gauges kit decal along with a liberal amount of decal setting solution. After the decal conforms to the raised dials and switches, seal it with a coat of clear flat. Once it has thoroughly dried, highlight the appropriate switches and knobs with small bits of paint on the end of a toothpick. 

The completed cockpit becomes a separate assembly, a “tub” that fits between the fuselage halves. Delay gluing the cockpit in place so it can be adjusted to fit into fuselage. Set the completed section aside and it’s time to move on to the Spitfire’s famous elliptical wing. 

The kit has the option to show off the fighter’s eight machine guns. Cut away the gun access panels along the top of the wing and the small doors underneath, where ammunition boxes would have been loaded. The panel covers are included as separate pieces. Paint the machine gun breeches gunmetal and the ammunition boxes aluminum. 

Once the weapons bays are complete it’s almost time to finish assembling the wing. Airfix has engineered an interesting way of attaching the landing gear. Two pieces (parts C-30 and C-31) serve as posts where the rest of the landing gear will be attached later. It’s a unique way of making sure the fighter sits correctly on its landing gear when finished. Assemble the wings, clean up and sand the edges and attach the ailerons. As separate pieces, they can be posed in a more natural position.

With the wings completed, it’s time to bring it all together. There will be some minor filling and sanding. Add the underwing oil filter pieces, engine air intake, horizontal stabilizer and rudder. Time for paint.

Invest in a set of camouflage paint masks. The adhesive vinyl masks are inexpensive and easy to use. AML Accessories from the Czech Republic has a wide range of Spitfire masks that make for a “proper” RAF camouflage pattern. Having chosen the markings that will be applied later, check to see which of the patterns—simply called “A” and “B”—are to be used. These official patterns are mirror images of each other made up of dark earth (FS30095) and a medium to dark green (FS34079). 

This Spitfire (P9386) will be displayed in the markings of Brian Lane, commander of No. 19 Squadron. By the late Summer of 1940, many fighters had their undersides painted a simple solid color sometimes called “sky type S,” a sort of pale bluish green (approximately FS34583).

Once the painting is complete, spray an overall clear gloss and set the model aside to dry. Use this time to assemble the landing gear, tail wheel and engine exhaust shrouds. Mask and paint the canopy pieces as well. 

Squadron Leader Lane’s Spitfire sported a bright yellow spinner, said to be a holdover from when the airplane had been part of a flying training unit. Paint and assemble the spinner and propeller, then set it aside. EagleCals decal sheet EC157 is a great set of markings for four different Battle of Britain Spitfires, including Lane’s Spitfire Mk.I, marked with the squadron code letters “QV-K.” Lane was credited with shooting down a Messerschmitt Me-110 in this aircraft on September 7, 1940. A seven-victory ace, he was known as an exceptional leader. Unfortunately he would be reported missing on December 13, 1942, last seen chasing two Focke-Wulf Fw-190s. 

Carefully begin the process of adding the markings to the aircraft. A small amount of setting solution makes the decals conform to every rivet and panel line, helping create the look of having been painted on. Add some light weathering, some wear to the metal, especially along the left wing root where pilots scrambled into their aircraft. A few oily streaks underneath, a bit of exhaust staining and this Spitfire has the look of a busy British defender. 

Now carefully attach the landing gear using the posts on the wing assembled earlier, taking care to make sure they have the proper angle. This Spitfire will be shown with the left-side crew entry door opened to show off all that cockpit detail. The kit-supplied door is one of the few pieces lacking detail. An aftermarket resin door from Ultracast is the perfect solution. The selection of clear canopy parts includes canopies for a number of different Spitfire marks. The clear parts are crisp and very clear. Be sure to pick the right canopy and add the rest to your parts box.

With the canopy, landing gear and radio antenna attached, Lane’s Spitfire is ready to take its place alongside your collection of Battle of Britain combatants.

A little extra attention can even make this “vintage” kit as sharp as the the original Bell X-3 Stiletto.

In the interest of full disclosure, let me say this up front: The Lindberg X-3 is a dinosaur of a kit. With the exception of a fresh set of decals, this model is exactly the same as when it was first released in the late 1950s. It was a time when many models were merely toys that you could put together, rather than the detailed reproductions we build today. Amazingly, this kit is one of only a very few offerings of this sleek, futuristic X-plane. Perhaps its lackluster performance in the air is a reason it’s not been a more popular subject. Nonetheless, we’ll give this one a try. Dust off the parts box, and get your scratch building skills in order.  

First things first, the cockpit. A well-stocked parts box is essential here. There isn’t a traditional “canopy” (the airplane had a unique downward-firing ejection seat that is also part of the system that lifts the pilot, seat and all, into the cockpit). Measure and cut away an opening in the bottom of the fuselage beneath the cockpit area. Research material at this point is invaluable. The book Skystreak, Skyrocket, & Stiletto: Douglas High-Speed X-Planes, by Scott Libis, is an excellent resource.

Side consoles and the forward instrument panel come from the parts box. Stock plastic sheet will form the coaming over the forward control panel. You will have to fashion a yoke instead of a stick. The seat needs help as well. Stretched sprue or wire form the “cage” that surrounds the seat. Once you’ve added a harness and seat belts, the completed seat will be attached to rails that extend down from the rear cockpit bulkhead. You’ll have to build that bulkhead as well. Set aside the seat for now, as it will be one of the last steps in completing the jet.

The intakes are just simple holes in the fuselage. Thin plastic sheet can help create the illusion of an intake “trunk.” Go ahead and assemble the engine. While you could cut open panels to show off a nicely detailed power plant, you’ll be better served by using it for structural support. The jet also needs a pair of exhaust cans, an easy scratch build from the plastic barrel of an old ballpoint pen.

The thin high-aspect-ratio wing of the Stiletto was smooth and sharp. You’ll want to sand down some of the heavy raised detail. The wing is designed to be inserted from the inside of the fuselage through two slots. This should be your last step as you bring the fuselage halves together. Don’t forget to pack the nose with some weight to get the aircraft to sit on its landing gear correctly. The fit will need help, so filling and sanding will take up a little time. Remember the kit is more than 50 years old!

The insides of the landing gear bays are a natural aluminum color, as is the gear. This is another area that would benefit from some scratch building and additional detail. After all that hard work with the cockpit, it’s up to you.

I prefer to paint the glossy white finish of the fuselage first, sealing it with a coat of gloss. I find it easier to mask off the fuselage in order to paint the wings their natural metal color. Overall the X-3, like other X-planes of the time, had a clean glossy finish. There would have been little weathering at all. Check your references when it comes to markings. The X-3 flew tests for both the U.S. Air Force and the National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics (NACA, NASA’s predecessor), so there are minor differences in markings. There were also minor changes depending on just what was on the “test card.”

With markings applied and another coat of gloss finish, your X-3 is ready for the dry lakebed at Edwards AFB. You can see the real deal, the sole X-3 built, in the Research & Development Gallery at the National Museum of the U.S. Air Force in Dayton, Ohio.

This Avenger wasn’t looking for the fictitious Thanos, the Grumman TBF/M Avenger torpedo bomber had a more dangerous enemy in mind.

Designed as a replacement for the aging TBD Devastator, the Grumman TBF/M Avenger was arguably the finest torpedo bomber of the war. Best known for its combat record in the Pacific, the Avenger also proved to be a potent weapon in the Atlantic. Operating from small escort carriers, Avengers hunted U-Boats using aerial depth charges, conventional bombs and rockets. Avengers were directly responsible for over thirty submarines and served as the “hunter” part of hunter-killer teams scouring the Atlantic.

These “sub-killing” bombers had a unique look that makes for an interesting addition to the collection.

The Kit

The South Korean based model company, Academy, Re-released the 1996 Accurate Miniatures TBF-1C Avenger in 2013.  With a lot of detail and good fit, it was well received by modelers looking for a 1/48^th scale replica of the famed torpedo bomber.

This Avenger comes with a choice of weapons, the standard Mk. XIII torpedo, 500lb general purpose bombs and Mk 54 depth charges. Perfect for this U-Boat hunting airplane.

Following the instructions, start with the cockpit painting it an interior Chromate Green (FS 34151). There is plenty of detail from the cockpit through to the bombardier’s station and the rear gunner’s turret. Paint consoles and electronic boxes black, white dials and switches. Add seatbelts and a harness to the pilot’s seat and to the small bench for the bombardier located in the cramped lower part of the airplane, just aft of the bomb bay. The bomb bay itself is part of the entire assembly that runs the length of one of the fuselage sides. Finally, after all that detail, painting and assembly, bring the fuselage halves together and set aside the completed fuselage.

The wing halves, rudder and horizontal stabilizers are a much simpler part of the build. Cement the parts together and set aside.

The unique powered turret

Next, it’s time to build the Avenger’s gun turret. Do your research. This part of the model is not for the novice. The turret, with its .50 caliber machine gun is a complicated little model in itself, comprising ten separate parts. Putting it all together requires extra patience. Take your time and dry fit pieces before final assembly.

Paint most of the pieces interior green. The machine gun should be a steel color with the ammunition chute aluminum. A brown leather armrest on the gunner’s seat, along with a set of seat belts add to the detail that’s already there. After the interior is finished put together the two clear parts of the turret with white glue or a cement designed for clear plastic.

The kit comes with a set of adhesive masks cut to the size of each pane of glass on the Avenger’s large greenhouse of a cockpit canopy. Gently peel off the mask bits and position them in their spots indicated in the instructions. For the turret, carefully stuff the interior of the completed ball shape with a small wad of paper towel and paint the piece the same dark gull gray color (FS 36231) as the upper part of the completed aircraft. Set the pieces of the turret aside to dry thoroughly.

Mask off the cockpit and bomb bay to prepare the model for painting. This Avenger depicts one of the aircraft from VC-55 on the USS Block Island.

Based aboard small, fast escort carriers, the aircraft were painted Dark Gull Gray on the upper surfaces and white underneath with the white color extending up along the sides of the fuselage. The pattern is a marked difference from the variety of blue schemes seen in the Pacific theater. Mask and paint the fuselage and then attach the wings and horizontal stabilizers, painting along the way. Give the model a coat of clear gloss to get it ready for the decals.

While the aircraft dries, assemble the tires and landing gear. Struts are all painted white including the landing gear bays. Paint the propeller black with a silver hub and white or pale gray “cuffs” at the base of each propeller blade.

Cement the bombs into the bomb bay with the two aerial mines forward and the two general purpose bombs to the rear. The bomb bay doors come as two pieces but will need to be split to pose the doors in an open position. Use a razor saw to cut the doors apart and attach them to the door struts.

Final details 

Attach the landing gear and gear doors making sure the airplane sits correctly and give the model a coat of flat varnish to seal the decals.

Carefully, very carefully place the gunner’s turret in its position on the airplane. The fit is extremely tight so take care in adding the completed turret. Next, add the rest of the canopy using a cement designed for clear plastic. Be sure to pose the cockpit open to show off all that detail and hard work. Last, attach the “tiny bits,” the distinct upward canted pitot tube, clear pieces for the red and green formation lights, the delicate surface radar antenna beneath each wing and this TBF-1C Avenger is ready to head out to hunt U-Boats or just start a conversation on the display shelf.