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Our favorite nuclear lizard rose from the ashes in a classic origin story remake and brought along some aviation history.

Set in the days after the end of World War II, 2023’s Godzilla minus One is a retelling of the beginnings of the classic thriller franchise. The dramatic ending of the movie finds the hero, a former pilot, set to take a unique, futuristic looking fighter plane into battle against our favorite mutant lizard. Screenwriters tapped actual aviation history by enlisting a Kyushu J7W Shinden fighter for the climactic final battle. The arrow shaped Shinden was a prototype design developed near the end of the war but never saw operational use. The Shinden was the perfect mix of historical accuracy with a hint of science fiction.

The Kit

Hasegawa first released their 1/48 scale J7W in 1981 but signed up with Toho studios to get on the Godzilla bandwagon for this 2023 rerelease. The kit is classic Hasegawa, crisp molding with little flash and nicely recessed panel lines. The instructions are simple and straightforward.

This release of the kit doesn’t simply change the box art. A number of details are called out in the instructions. Deleting the tiny outrigger wheels at the base of the vertical fins, not adding the fourth cannon (to make room for the explosive that blew the monster’s head off … or did it?) and deleting the World War II pilot figure. There’s even a pretty neat decal of the monster along with the set of generic Japanese markings.

The Smithsonian’s National Air and Space museum has the last surviving example of this unique fighter and the photos they have are just what’s needed to serve as reference for this kit. The forward section of the cockpit is on Display at the museum’s Udvar-Hazy Center. It’s an airplane that appears a little worse for wear but that’s the “look” I’m going for.

Getting started

Start with the cockpit, painting the interior the standard Japanese interior grayish green. Dry-brushing a bit of aluminum and a dark colored wash to pop out some detail. Use a toothpick dipped in a bit of paint to highlight knobs and switches. Paint the control panel a deep dark gray, nearly black. A decal for the cockpit dials needs a liberal bit of setting solution to get the decal to snuggle into the nooks and crannies. An aftermarket seatbelt is all that’s needed to finish detailing the cockpit.

Multitasking masking

Allied forces discovered a number of incomplete Shinden fighters at the end of the war. One look at the unique canard design and five bladed “pusher” engine and it’s no surprise that engineers wouldn’t have wanted a closer look.

What they found looked a bit worse for wear, pieced together and a little “unfinished,” it’s an interesting look that requires some masking, some more masking and a little patience.

Following the instructions, assemble the wings along with the vertical “rudders,” I’ll keep those outrigger wheels on my model. Mask and paint a couple panels aluminum silver and/or a pale green gray “primer” color. Using photos as a guide, add small specs of a masking solution where natural wear and tear would be. Once the liquid mask is dry, paint the wing assembly a dark Green over a pale gray/green. I’m using Tamyia’s Japanese Navy Dark Green; AS-21 and USAAF Light Gray; AS-16, with TS-1 Red Brown for the spinner and propeller. While there are plenty of opinions, veritable scholarly dissertations on what the “correct” colors should be, I’m relying on my own standard “TLAR” system (That Looks About Right), matching it to my vision of what the airplane might have looked like when it was found in an abounded hangar by a group of curious allied aeronautical engineers.

That well worn look

After scrubbing the liquid mask from the wings, set them aside to dry. Take the finished cockpit and fit it between the fuselage halves along with the nose gear wheel well. Part B11 covers the area with the forward canard “wings” and the machine gun bay. In this case it’s also the perfect spot for a few lead weights so that this unique fighter sits properly. With weight in the nose and the fuselage together, mask and paint the fuselage in the same fashion as the main wings. With everything dry, assemble the wings and fuselage. Set the nearly completed Shinden aside to dry.

Paint the landing gear struts black with chrome silver for the hydraulic oleo. Tires should be a black “rubber” color with aluminum hubs. I used a mask set from the Czech company Artscalekit, ASK, (ASKM48125) that made painting much easier. The set will do the same for the clear canopy parts. With the landing gear completed, set them aside.

I rubbed down the model with the finest grit sandpaper I had, to dull the finish and give it a generally scuffed up appearance. Tamiya makes a number of weathering sets, complete with an applicator that will add some dust and grime to the finish. Set “A” (Sand, Light Sand, and Mud) gives me the colors I’ll need and comes with it’s own little applicator. Satisfied, it’s time to attach the landing gear, a pair of antennas and the five bladed propeller that pushes this model across the finish line.

A household move finally complete, it’s time to get back to the workbench in earnest while a few of the “locals” look on.

The old workbench has a new home. After weeks of settling in I’m ready to reach into the “stash” and start a new project. The local wildlife has been keeping an eye on my daily ritual, a few birds, the occasional squirrel and a Chipmunk … a Chipmunk.

The De Havilland Chipmunk was the company’s answer to its legendary Tiger Moth. The technological advancements in aviation during the Second World War had ushered in the jet age, high performance aircraft of all sorts needed specialized training. The days of training new “flyers” in open cockpit biplanes, scarf in the breeze, wind in the wires … were over.

The first De Havilland “Chipmunk” flew in May, 1946. It was a sporty looking low-wing monoplane with an enclosed cockpit and fixed landing gear. Nimble and easy to fly, it quickly became the standard introduction to the world of flying in the Royal Air Force for decades.

The Kit

Airfix have been doing a bang up job the past few years releasing well engineered kits of aircraft that modelers have been clamoring for. A bonus has been that from time to time they’ve brought out an unexpected gem; their De Havilland Chipmunk is just such a kit.

Starting with the cockpit, follow the instructions, painting the interior black. I used Tamyia’s “NATO Black” and dry brushed a bit of aluminum to give the details some definition. I had every intention of building my “Chippy” straight out of the box, there’s definitely enough detail in the kit.

The kit’s decal sheet includes dials and switches for the control panels but Eduard’s detail set (3DL 48048) includes a nice set of seat belts and control panel decals with the popular “3D” look. Just enough to satisfy the need for that little extra.

The completed cockpit fits snugly between the fuselage halves. Fit the engine firewall and make the decision to display the airplane with the engine covers open to show off the 145hp Gipsy Major 10 engine. The six-piece affair is attached to the firewall between two struts painted RAF interior green. Paint the engine dark gray with steel details and a dark wash to make the details pop.

A Full Color Project 

With the fuselage complete, carefully mask the exposed engine and cockpit, it’s time for some paint. I decided on a brightly colored primary trainer from Royal Air Force No. 2 Flying Training School circa 1973. Bright red and white, black anti-glare panel and light gray areas on the wings will make the finished airplane hard to miss on the display shelf.

Paint the fuselage white first, letting each color dry throughly before masking for the next. Patience is your most important tool at this point. 

Attach the bottom of the main wing to the fuselage before adding the top pieces. The fit is tight so dry fitting is a must. With wings and tail in place, continue to mask off the areas and follow the color diagram in the instructions.

Next, on to the landing gear. Airfix has included some interesting choices. For those looking to hang your chipmunk from a bedroom ceiling (flashback to my childhood), choose the struts with the longer oleo (parts C33,38). I’ll display mine on a shelf so I’ll choose the struts with the shorter, compressed oleo (parts 32,37). Attach the landing gear and tail wheel.

The propeller has a black and white face but instead of tiny bits of masking tape, someone at Airfix had the idea to add a decal to the rest of the sheet of markings. Thank you Airfix.

Attention to Detail

The kit has a couple more engineering items to note. Parts B19, the two actuators for the flaps and two handles (parts B10) that are part of the canopy assembly, come in threes even though only two are needed. I find this nod to the legendary “carpet monster” a bit of genius.

Another nice bit of engineering is the jig that you’ll need to help with assembling the rear canopy, part C27 helps tremendously in aligning the three pieces. Mask the clear parts and paint the canopy black. After the parts have dried thoroughly, paint the pieces the same glossy white as the fuselage. The black base will be visible from the inside of the canopy and creates a bit of dimension. Those two tiny canopy handles (parts B10) should be painted yellow. 

Final Approach

While waiting for things to dry it seemed a good time to start adding the decals. Airfix have been working closely with Cartograph and the results have been excellent. The markings lay down into panel lines and over rivets well. A little bit of decal setting solution and even the smallest markings look great.

Carefully attach the canopy pieces with white glue or a cement made for clear plastic parts. Finally, attach the two engine covers in their open position and this “Chippy” looks ready for another day of classroom instruction.

Atlantis Hobbies brings back a classic Cold War kit and it’s great nostalgia.

The Bomarc surface-to-air missile was a Cold War response to the apocalyptic vision of squadrons of Soviet bombers headed toward targets in North America. A nuclear-tipped interceptor streaking toward the enemy seems the stuff of science fiction today, but in the 1950s it was an all too real strategy. 

During the post World War II boom, things seemed to get … bigger. Cars got bigger, houses got bigger, even the portions at the local diner got bigger, and so did surface-to-air missiles. By the end of the war experiments with anti-aircraft missiles led to a number of concepts, technology being what it was (before the microchip) many proposals were as large as the early jet fighters of the day. Boeing’s ramjet powered MX 1599 was just one of those designs. The Air Force thought the idea was promising and, emphasizing that it was essentially a pilotless aircraft, gave it the designation F-99. 

Testing lasted through 1955 and the early versions of what was now designated the IM-99A, got the nickname BOMARC (Boeing Michigan Aeronautical Research Center). The project mirrored some US Army projects, and created more than a little inter-service rivalry, but this was clearly the air force’s baby. 

BOMARC was declared operational in 1959, and while the Air Force wanted to create as many as 52 sites around the country defending major US cities, only 14 were built in the US and two in Canada, our North American Air Defense Command (NORAD) partner. As defense budgets decreased cuts followed some of the maintenance issues (and an accident or two). Missile sites began to be deactivated and the last operational site at McGuire AFB, New Jersey was closed down in 1972.

BOMARC remains a fascinating story of weapons development during the height of the Cold War. This faithful replica will make a great source of conversation on a modeler’s display shelf.

The Kit

Revell released their IM-99 Bomarc kit in 1958. Fortunately for us, the classic Cold War missile is back on hobby shop shelves thanks to the Long Island company, Atlantis Hobbies. The kit comes complete with the original box art by the legendary artist Jack Leynnwood. The parts are exactly the same as they were when the kit first hit the shelves. Ah, nostalgia.

Gather up four or five grades of sandpaper and get to work. Assembly of the missile is relatively simple, since only a dozen pieces make up the actual weapon. There is some minor flash and a few ejector pin marks, typical of older kits. Rather heavy rivets and deep panel lines will need to be sanded down. The fit is ok but seams will still need some putty, more sanding and then…some more sanding. After the fuselage, wings and tail come together, it’s time for…a little more sanding. A coat of primer or a product like Mr. Surfacer will help reveal spots that need additional filling and sanding. The two ramjet engines attached to the bottom of the fuselage should be joined, sanded and primed as well. Once those heavy panel lines are gone, re-scribing some of them using those all-important research photos is a great idea. 

While the missile is drying, start on the launch platform. Dry-fit and clean up the various pieces first. Once the base is complete, you might find the frame is slightly warped—it happens frequently with kits from older molds. Dipping the frame in a bath of boiling water will heat the plastic enough to aid in bending the piece, just a bit. This will help ensure all four legs are level. The gantry is next. While construction is very simple, take time to dry-fit and sand parts so they will be easier to work with. 

Prime the launch pad with a coat of white, then a nice industrial yellow. A light wash of black will make some of the detail pop. To replicate the dials and gauges on the launcher, a cockpit instrument panel decal from the parts box can be cut down. Small excess ejector pin pieces form the back of the gauges. Florist’s wire works well for some of the hydraulic lines that run the length of the launch rail.

With the launch platform nearly complete, painting the missile itself is next. There are three schemes to choose from. One is an overall gray that was typical of operational missiles and Canadian markings are included for their contribution. A third scheme is more visually interesting, an overall black with white wingtips and geometric striping. Spray the white first, and following your reference photos, mask off the areas that will remain white. There are decals for the white striping, but masking the white before painting the rest of the missile gives a cleaner look. The nose should be a medium tan color. After an overall gloss coat, it’s time for markings. The decals are a bit thick; a decal setting solution will make them settle into the panel lines just fine.

Set aside the missile and turn your attention back to the launcher. The launch rail/gantry assembly snaps into the base, and it can be articulated so that you can display the missile either horizontally or vertically. A few decals, data plates and warning signs complete the base.

Parts are included for a maintenance stand that runs the length of the launcher. It’s a nice addition but we’ll add it to the next one (how could you build just one?).

Back to the missile and some final bits and pieces. Attach the two ramjets to the underside of the main fuselage. Another layer of gloss coat and the missile is ready to be attached to the launch pad. Finally this classic IM-99 Bomarc missile is ready to display. Building this kit brings back a lot of memories, but with the intervening years comes experience. Hopefully your completed missile looks a little sharper than it did the first time. 

A last ditch fighter designed to keep the Allies at bay, jet technology and plywood wasn’t enough. It was however, a unique, innovative design that certainly turned heads.

Too little, too late

By 1944 Hitler had directed the development of new cutting edge technology in hopes of creating a series of Wunderwaffen, “Wonder Weapons,” that he decided could stop the Allies and maybe even … win. The Luftwaffe had long been interested in jet and rocket technology. They would field the first operational jet powered fighter, the Messerschmitt Me 262. While it slashed its way through bomber formations there were never enough to make a real difference. The Luftwaffe had to look at just about anything that could help.

Commanders began the Jägernotprogramm, the “Emergency Fighter Program,” designed to get some of their cutting edge designs off the drawing board and into the air as quickly as possible.

One of those designs was the Heinkel He-162 Volksjäger, the “Peoples Fighter.” It was meant to be built quickly from “non-strategic” materials, primarily plywood. Small, even for a fighter, it still packed a punch with two 20mm cannon and later a pair of 30mm guns. A single turbojet engine sat across the spine of the fuselage giving the craft its “hunchback” look as well as a top speed of nearly 520 mph. 

It was a relatively simple airplane to produce, and meant to be simple to fly. Meant to be manned by young Hitler Youth, it actually took experienced pilots to master its handling qualities. During an all to brief operational career the fighter did see combat scoring at least one Royal Air Force fighter on April 19, 1945. Over 120 were built with as many as 600 more discovered in a number of underground factories and assembly areas at the end of the war. Captured He-162s were test flown by a number of allied pilots including Eric Brown, the legendary test pilot from the Royal Navy’s Fleet Air Arm and American test pilot Bob Hoover.

The Kit

There are a number of kits of the He-162 available, the 1/48th scale Tamiya kit was first released in 2006 and has nice detail and a number of great features.

There’s actually an opportunity, to make two models. The kit is engineered to have the builder display the model with the engine bay closed or open to expose a very nice  BMW 003 E-1 turbojet engine. I decided to build the engine separately and display it on its maintenance stand. It should sit nicely next to the finished jet.

Start with the engine. It’s hard to resist the temptation to add extra hydraulics and a little wiring. The majority of the engine is painted aluminum with the back half a darker metallic color to mimic the discoloration from the heat of the engine. Set the completed engine aside. On to the aircraft itself.

The aftermarket

Next come a couple of small sub-assemblies. The cockpit has nice detail but a number of aftermarket parts are available. Quickboost makes a great version of the early ejection seat used in the He-162. Paint the new seat and the separate control panel. The nose gear and wheel well form the lower front end of the cockpit. Sandwich the main landing gear and wheel well, the cockpit and nose gear assemblies along with a large ball bearing (conveniently supplied in the kit) so that the jet will not become a tail-sitter between the two fuselage halves. The completed fuselage needs minimal filler and the overall fit is very good.

The Czech company CMK makes a nice resin set of the airplane’s control surfaces, flaps, ailerons and a complete tail assembly. The dropped flaps and ailerons, just a little off kilter, all add to the look we’re going for. Using a razor saw cut away the existing flaps. Once they’re removed the resin versions can be set in place, It’s an easy fit. The finished tail assembly fits great too. The seat and control panel are complete but they’ll go in later after the fuselage has been painted.

A different sort of camouflage 

The inspiration for the model came from a photo of an unfinished aircraft found by allied forces at the end of the war. The aircraft had the natural metal surfaces set off by putty over the riveting. The engine nacelle and the wings were painted, as was the tail and other surfaces constructed of other ‘non-strategic’ materials. Mostof the rear of the airplane was plywood and gets a smooth light gray color.

I used a can of Testors aluminum plate that I had tucked away and despite its age it went on very well. The paint is ‘buffed’ after it dries and has a nice sheen to it. Then it’s a fair amount of hand work with a small brush and  ‘Light Gull Grey’ to simulate the putty marks over the top of the Aluminum sections of the fuselage. Unsure of the actual colors, I used the “TLAR” system, ‘That Looks About Right.

Painting the tail requires a bit of masking to give it that unfinished look, using my photo reference as a guide. By the end of the war Heinkel didn’t seem to go in for the standard ‘splinter’ camouflage most Luftwaffe aircraft had. The Heilkel had to get out of the factory and into the air quickly, no time to waste! The wings and engine nacelle are painted different shades of Luftwaffe Hellgrün (RLM 82) Olivenbraun (RLM 81). By the end of the war there were many slight variations in these colors so The individual modeler has a little leeway.

With the wings and tail on, the jet starts to look like an airplane. Clearcoat, and add what little there were in the way of decals . The markings included in the kit go on just fine.  

Time to mask and paint the canopy. A lighter grey first, then a much darker grey. I want it to seem as if the interior structure of the canopy frame is lighter than the exterior. The photo I’m using shows the canopy smashed but I just can’t bring myself to destroy that much of the cockpit.  The resin seat is a little big but superglue solves the problem and sliding this early ejection seat down the rails needs a little patience. The detail of the seat and harness really makes a difference in the cockpit.

Another layer of clearcoat once the decals are on and we’re almost done. The control panel slips onto the forward part of the cockpit. A small fine point art pen works well for the small ‘27’ on the forward part of the fuselage. Use white glue attach the canopy and the unique fighter is complete. The finished Heinkel He-162 alongside its power-plant make a nice addition to a collection of some of the Luftwaffe’s more unique last ditch aircraft designs on the display shelf.

Legendary aircraft designer Clarence “Kelly” Johnson designed a sleek, simple jet fighter that helped take America into the jet age.

The Bell P-59 Airacomet was America’s first jet powered aircraft, but it would be Lockheed’s Kelly Johnson who would design the jet that would make it to the flight line first. During the last months of World War II, the U.S. was struggling to catch up to its own Allies as well as the Luftwaffe. The British Gloster Meteor was already in service knocking down speedy “Buzz Bombs” headed to targets in Britain. The Messerschmitt Me-262 was slashing its way through allied bomber formations. America was left tinkering on the cusp of “the Jet Age” at a small air base in the California desert.

With the Bell airplane’s lackluster performance, the door was open for Lockheed to step up. Kelly Johnson and his “Skunk Works” crew would produce an entirely new jet fighter in only 143 days. The clean lines of the P-80 Shooting Star had the look of the future that the fledging “Air Force” was looking for. Clearly the better airplane, the P-80A was still a handful and a number of accidents during testing hinted at a steep learning curve. The P-80 had one toe in the future and one in the past. without an ejection seat, and a little underpowered at first, the jet was quickly improved and would see yeomanlike work during the Korean War as the newly designated F-80C.

But first … 

The Kit

In 2013 Hobby Boss released a Lockheed F-80A Shooting Star, the first of a series of three different versions including an RF-80 and an F-80C. Technically speaking, they’re all the same kit, with the exception of a few new parts for the reconnaissance nose section of the RF-80. However, with a few minor changes, the “F-80A” can be backdated to depict an earlier P-80A. 

In 1948 the newly formed U.S. Air Force changed their designation system so that the P-80 (P for pursuit during World War II), became an F-80 (F for fighter). Initial production versions of the new jet did not have an ejection seat, nor did the airplane have a radar in the nose, the technology hadn’t quite caught up to the era of the jet fighter.

Getting Started

Start with the cockpit painting it an interior “chromate” green (FS 34151). Replace the very nice seven-piece ejection seat with a simpler World War II style seat and harness. A spare resin seat originally meant for a P-47 will do the trick. Behind the pilot, a simple armored headrest can be cut from plastic card. The cockpit assembly sits on top of the nose gear wheel well along with the nose gear strut.

Place the six machine gun barrels into their corresponding slots on the inside of either side of the nose. Install the intake plates (parts A4 and A5) and sandwich the completed cockpit and wheel well between the two halves of the forward fuselage. Use simple white school glue to help anchor a number of small lead fishing weights in the nose to prevent the airplane from becoming a “tail sitter.” Remember the rule of thumb that if you think you have enough weight, add more.

Making Choices

The model is designed to give the builder a choice in displaying the fighter with the rear removed to show off the early jet engine or as a complete jet. To assemble it in one piece, discard part E19 to help lighten the rear of the airplane. Assemble the two rear fuselage pieces and add the interior exhaust pipe. Add the horizontal stabilizers and attach the completed tail to the forward section of fuselage.

On to the wings. Cement the pieces that make up the landing gear bays into their positions on the lower section of the wing, painting them interior chromate green. Before attaching the pieces of the upper wing, dry fit the assembly to the fuselage. The fit is tight and sanding along the wing root edge will be needed to ensure a hint of dihedral. Do not use the underwing hard points, save the 500lb bombs and the larger “Misawa” drop tanks for your Korean War era F-80C. Attach the wings to the fuselage and fill and sand where needed, then set the completed assembly aside to dry.

Put together the landing gear, painting the tires a “rubber” black color and the hubs and struts aluminum. Paint the interior of the landing gear doors aluminum as well.

Backdating Details

Early production models of the Shooting Star were painted in an overall pearl-gray color (approximately FS 26622). Those early P-80s also had a single landing light in the nose that would be replaced by a radar in later F-80B and F-80C models. Using a liquid mask, brush over the small area on part 62, one of the kit’s clear parts, that fits neatly on the nose of the airplane. Refer to your research to get the size and shape of the area right.

After painting the model and adding a coat of gloss varnish, it’s time for markings. Use the kit decals for its stencils and other basic markings. Weathering should be minimal; these were new and well maintained jets.

Postwar Markings for the Jet Age

From the spares box, a well-cared for set of aftermarket decals (Super Scale set 48-35) has markings for the P-80A “Rhapsody in Rivets,” belonging to 412^th Fighter Group Commander, Col. Bruce K. Holloway. In May 1946, the group was tasked with showing off their sleek new fighters, crisscrossing the country. Holloway, an ace in the Pacific during World War II, displayed his combat victories on the tail of his fighter along with many of his pilots, all combat veterans.

With decals complete and hit with a light coat of clear varnish, attach the pair of flaps to the wing and  the landing gear, and the two small speed brakes underneath the airplane. Main gear doors are a two piece affair with one part attached to the wing and a second piece attached to the gear strut and tire. Glue in place the single antenna just behind the nose gear bay. The delicate pitot tube, normally seen attached to the leading edge of an airplane’s wing, is located on the forward edge of the rudder.

Mask and paint the bubble canopy, attaching the finished pieces to the cockpit. Pose the canopy slid back to show off the detail in the cockpit. With the cockpit canopy in place, your Lockheed P-80A is now ready to display with your collection of early jet aircraft.

Better known as Grumman’s answer to the vaunted Mitsubishi “Zero,” the F6F Hellcat also prowled European skies, and went toe-t0-toe with the Luftwaffe.

Luftwaffe kill markings on a Hellcat? 

The Grumman F6F is synonymous with the Pacific Theater of World War II. Alex Vraciu, Eugene Valencia, the Navy’s leading ace, David McCampbell and 302 other Navy and Marine Corps pilots, became aces flying the tough fighter. It’s considered by many as the “Zero killer” specifically designed to take on the Japanese fighter that had a near mythic status early in the war. 

The Hellcat did however, best more than just Japanese aircraft. In August 1944, two squadrons of Hellcats from the escort carriers USS Tulagi and Kasaan Bay were part of  Operation Dragoon, the invasion of southern France, pilots of Observation Fighter Squadron 1 (VOF-1), Ensign Alfred Wood and Lt. (j.g.) Edward Olszewski took turns flying the same Grumman F6F-5 Hellcat, shooting down a total of four German aircraft. The fighter they flew was an early model of the F6F-5. 

The Kit 

The Czech model company Eduard has become known for their crisp detail and accuracy. For the picky modeler who wants to build that earlier version of the Hellcat, an Eduard kit is a great choice. Their “Profipack” early F6F-5 release (No. 8225) makes a great OOB (out of the box) project. Finely detailed resin wheels and a beautiful color PE (photo-etched) metal fret means there’s almost no need to buy extra aftermarket sets.

Start with the cockpit and a coat of “interior green” (FS34151) on cockpit walls, seat, bulkheads. Should you decide to use the PE detail set, find some quiet time and unpack your patience. Study the instructions and begin carefully working your way through the (sometimes very tiny) details. Toothpicks and even a small needle are good tools for applying glue to tiny areas. A pair of tweezers is a must.

Align the cockpit between the fuselage halves, glue and clamp where needed. Set the assembly aside and move on to the next step. Overall the fit is very good—only some minor filling and sanding is needed.

The engine is a nice little model all by itself. Crisp detail on the Pratt & Whitney R-2800 is accentuated by a wiring harness from the PE fret. Paint the cylinders an aluminum color, the crankcase grey and wiring black. Use a dark wash to pop out the highlights.

Assemble the horizontal stabilizers. Glue the landing gear interior to the bottom half of the wings and put them together as well. After a little sanding, clean up the wings and stabilizers. Bring the assemblies together and the airplane is ready for the paint shop. Camouflage for this Hellcat is relatively easy. The fighter was painted an overall “sea blue” (FS 25042), including the landing gear. Mask off the cockpit and give the model its color.

Time for some color

A little weathering will add some interest to the monochromatic color scheme. On a cotton swab, ground black, white and a bit of blue oil pastel can create exhaust staining that resembles the way heated metal looks against a darker colored area. A little oil and some fuel stains help give the look of an airplane that spends time outside on a pitching carrier deck. Apply an overall spray of clear gloss and the model is ready for its markings.

Two pilots and four Luftwaffe planes down

There are a couple of aftermarket decal sets available that have the markings for Olszewski and Wood’s airplane. National insignia and stencils come from the kit’s decal sheet. The national insignia in particular is composed of just the white star and bars, using the dark blue of the airplane to substitute for the rest of the design. The fighter’s four victory markings and the names of the two pilots will make this Hellcat unique. Take care with the application of the delicate aftermarket decals. Seal the decals with a coat of clear semi-gloss.

The kit includes masks that are pre-cut to neatly fit the clear canopy pieces. The masks are easy to apply and the result is a clean, neat cockpit canopy. Add the assembled landing gear, the smaller bits, pitot, antenna and propeller. Attach the canopy and be sure to slide it back to show off all the cockpit detail.

Your European theater Hellcat is finally ready to display, an interesting addition to your Pacific Cats.

By adding a few aftermarket extras to Hasegawa’s F-4B Phantom II, a ”phan” can proudly add the Navy’s first MiG killer of the Vietnam war to their display shelf.

First Blood

On June 17, 1965 two US Navy F-4B Phantom II fighters met North Vietnamese MiG-17s downing two in a textbook missile engagement. The pair of Navy jets of VF-21 from the carrier USS Midway were crewed by Commander Lou Page, his back-seater Lieutenant J.C. Smith. They were followed by another jet flown by Lt. David Batson and Lt. Cdr. Robert Doremus.

They intercepted the enemy jets, and in an action straight out of the Phantom’s playbook they approached the fighters. The pair of MiG-17s suddenly became four flying close together. Each crew fired a radar guided AIM-7 Sparrow missile, each missile found it’s mark and they were each credited with aerial “kills,” the first American victories of the war.

The missiles worked as advertised, something many would rarely do in future engagements. It would later be discovered that the explosions of the MiGs damaged each of the other jets and probably resulted in at least one other airplane not making it back to base. A third kill that was never confirmed.

The Kit

Phantom “phans” can be a picky bunch when it comes to the myriad nuances among the many versions and upgrades that the McDonnell F-4 Phantom II underwent following its first flight in 1958. Hasegawa’s range of F-4 kits makes even the most detail-oriented modeler happy. First released in the 1980s, its line of Phantoms have remained among the best kits of the type in 1/48th scale. Hasegawa’s F-4B can be built into a fine replica OOB (out of the box), but the popularity of the F-4 means there are plenty of aftermarket detail kits to add to the build.

Detailing “the office”

Begin with the cockpit. The kit has nice, raised detail for the modeler with a keen eye and a steady hand. There are also two five-piece ejection seats and two detailed pilot figures. For this Phantom, a pair of resin Martin-Baker ejection seats from True Details and an interior metal set from the Czech company Eduard will add detail. Pay particular attention to the rear seat. In the U.S. Navy, the cockpit for the RIO (radar intercept officer) doesn’t have flight controls, so the control stick and throttle aren’t there. Find some quiet time for clipping, bending and cementing all the metal details in place.

While the cockpit tub is drying, it’s time to tackle some of the smaller subassemblies. Put together the landing gear, paint the hydraulic struts for the speed brakes and assemble the centerline external fuel tank. It’s also a good time to tackle the weapons.

This Phantom was armed with three radar-guided AIM-7 Sparrows and two AIM-9B Sidewinder heat-seeking missiles. Paint the missiles white. The Sparrows have a light grey nose cone. Give the Sidewinders a black seeker head and add a drop of clear gloss to mimic the lens. Two Bobs Decals makes a decal sheet specifically for these kinds of missiles (48-086), helping to give each weapon some visual authenticity. Cement the AIM-9s to the two missile rails that will be attached to one of the inboard wing pylons (G-5 or G-6) and a single Sparrow to the other. Set the completed assemblies aside.

With the cockpit complete, glue it to the right side of the fuselage and bring the two halves together. Assemble the top and bottom halves of the wing and attach them to the completed fuselage. It’s a nice snug fit, so there’s very little filling and sanding to get those seams just right. Assemble the engine intakes, but save the two “splitter plates” (D-27 and 28), just forward of the intakes, for later. Fill and sand where needed.

Over time the F-4 upgrades added bulges, bumps and antennas to the airframe. For this early F-4B a couple of those bumps will need to be removed. Using a craft knife, remove the two sensor bumps on the top edge of the vertical stabilizer and sand to shape. Likewise, there are two sensors under each intake that should be removed.

With the bulk of the Phantom complete, it’s time for some paint. The camouflage scheme for Navy aircraft of the time called for white undersides, including the insides of the wheel wells. The upper surfaces are painted light gull gray (FS36440). It technically has a matt finish but you’ll need to use a clear gloss before adding decals. Moveable surfaces—rudder, flaps and horizontal stabilizers (but not the ailerons)—are white on both top and bottom. Add a black matt anti-glare area from the cockpit forward to the radar nose cone, which is painted an overall gloss black.

Add a clear gloss coat to the interior of the wheel wells and speed brakes, using a dark wash to pick out the detail and give these areas a well-worn look. Carrier aircraft spent a lot of time exposed to the weather. Refer to photos from the time and add some daily grime to the underside of the jet.

The lower section of the rear of the airplane is a metallic, titanium color, as are the inner part of the horizontal stabilizers. Check your resources and the instructions for the correct areas to mask off. Attach the horizontal stabilizers once they’re finished, making sure to have the correct anhedral that is part of the Phantom’s signature silhouette.

Detailed resin extras make a difference

The Hasegawa F-4 kits have a nice level of detail, but the afterburners are inaccurate. Eduard comes to the rescue again with a beautiful set of “burner cans” designed for this F-4B kit. Assemble the pair, painting them a dark titanium color and use a black wash to make the fine resin detail pop. A mix of dark and white pastels can simulate the heat marks inside the afterburner created by the 17,900 pounds of thrust delivered by each of the General Electric J79 engines. Slide the pieces in and cement in place.

The kit comes with two types of canopies. One is a single piece affair, the other comes as four separate pieces, designed to be posed open, showing off all that hard work inside the two cockpits. Mask off the canopy pieces, paint and set them aside.

With the camouflage complete, give the model a coat of clear gloss and get to the decals. Furball’s Bravo MiG Killers, Part 2 has markings for both jets involved in the June 17, 1965, engagement described in the Aviation History magazine. The story is told through the experiences of Lieutenant Dave Batson and his RIO, Lt. Cmdr. Rob Doremus. The pair would ultimately down two North Vietnamese MiG-17s that day.

Carefully begin cutting out and applying the decals. Batson’s and Doremus’ names do not appear on the canopy rails of the jet they flew that day, which was assigned to Commander Lou Page and Lieutenant J.C. Smith, the crew flying the other F-4B involved in the engagement. It is not uncommon to fly a mission in a fighter that has someone else’s name on the canopy rail. Detailed artwork included with this set of markings ensures an accurate result. The Furball decals go on easily and with a gentle setting solution look great. Seal the decals with a clear coat and set aside to dry. Don’t forget the tiny MiG-17 silhouette on the splitter plate in front of the engine intake!

Add a modest amount of weathering, especially to the underside and rear of the jet. The GE J79 engines were notorious for their telltale smoke trail, so add a dark chalk pastel color to the rear of the engine’s exhaust where soot would collect, baked against the metal by the hot afterburner.

Adding the final touches

Attach the landing gear, the slightly opened speed brakes and the centerline external fuel tank. Add the two inner wing pylons (G-5 and 6) with the weapons completed earlier—Sidewinders on the left and the pylon with the single Sparrow on the right. The other two AIM-7 Sparrows should rest in two recessed areas under the fuselage. There are four stations designed specifically for that type of missile; be sure to cement the pair of Sparrows into the two forward spots.

Finally, add the clear canopies painted earlier. The flat pane of glass on the forward section actually has a light blue tint. You can get this effect by using a blue highlighter marker on the inside of the clear plastic piece to create the translucent color. Two small hydraulic struts (D-13) hold the canopies open at the same angle. Remember to add the gunsight from the Eduard detail set.

Your Phantom is ready to be next in line for the catapult and another sortie in search of more MiGs!

By the End of WWII the Luftwaffe entertained nearly any idea to stave off he inevitable

The rocket-powered Bachem Ba-349 Natter was a desperate attempt by the Germans to stem the tide of Allied bombers attacking enemy targets coming in larger and larger numbers during the waning days of World War II. Constructed from plywood and other “non-strategic” materials, it was a curious design that in retrospect probably looked like a better idea on paper.

On March 1, 1945, the only manned launch of the Ba-239 resulted in the death of Bachem-Werke test pilot Lothar Sieber. Most accounts say that the craft left the tower and, climbed to over 1,500 feet when engineers on the ground saw the cockpit canopy fly loose and from the craft. Whether Sieber was injured, knocked unconscious, or struggled to continue the mission, the Natter soared to about 5,000 feet when it rolled over and flew into the ground, killing Sieber.

The Kit

DML/Dragon models from Hong Kong released their 1/48th-scale Ba-349 in the late 1980s. Crisp molding, nice detail, an etched-metal detail set and a complete Walter 109-509A rocket motor make this simple kit a gem. The fuselage is split so that it can be displayed showing off the power plant. This version of the kit comes with a simple maintenance stand, two mechanics and a display base.

Start with the front end of the aircraft. The cockpit is simple and straightforward, much like the real thing, paint it a medium grey with aluminum details and a small black control panel. Add the seat belts that are part of the metal detail set included in the kit. Beware, as some of the parts are very small and delicate. Care should be taken when removing them from the trees, and then be even more careful that they don’t disappear during assembly. The rocket motor is a combination of metal from the etched fret and a number of other delicate pieces. Patience is essential here, but pays off in a nice detailed part of the finished model. 

A manned shotgun shell

The rocket’s only armament was a “shotgun” load of as many as 55 explosive rockets that would be fired into the packed formations of Allied bombers. Once the single pass was complete, the craft would come apart “ejecting” the pilot to parachute back to earth, ready for the next sortie. Essentially the “Natter” was a manned artillery shell. The rocket nose of the model is represented by a single flat piece. Paint it the same gray as the rest of the forward section, and use a black wash, to pick out the details.

Replicating “non-strategic” materials

The Natter was made primarily of plywood, and the wooden finish makes for an interesting challenge. HGW Models from the Czech Republic sells a number of decal sets in a variety of wood tones. The decals are translucent and require a base coat—white or a pale tan works well. The film is very, very thin. Careful attention and that all-important tool, patience, is required. Measure twice, cut once when trimming the decal for its spot on the aircraft. A good approach is to make a series of templates for the plywood panels, then cut the shape and apply. The result makes for a very interesting, realistic finish. 

Mask and spray the canopy. It’s a thick piece that benefits from masking both the inside and out. Attach it to the forward section of the fuselage. Just tack the main section of the canopy in place to protect the cockpit from the grey primer that comes next. The primer color of the forward section and the natural plywood of the tail help give the appearance of a Natter being assembled before delivery and an operational sortie. Spray the fuselage with a coat of semigloss to protect the finish. Attach the rocket motor, and the forward section of the Natter is complete. The rear will be entirely plywood, finally completed and sprayed with a lacquer coat. Carefully pick out the metal details with a small brush. This version of DML’s kit has a wooden support stand to display the finished model (another version includes the entire launch tower). The stand is very simple, sprayed and given a wood grain finish. The shapes are also simple enough to pull out some thin balsa and basswood to build your own support stand. After a light varnish, the Natter has a place to rest. Assemble and paint the four booster rockets a dark steel metallic color, and attach them to the rear section.

Captured and studied

The kit comes with a round display stand that was painted flat black and a coat of clear varnish. “Grass” was created using materials from a diorama kit found at a local craft store. Displayed unassembled, it’s sure to be studied on the display shelf the same way allied engineers did as the war came to an end.

Your Ba-349 Natter is now ready to take its place alongside those other last-ditch Luftwaffe oddities that continue to fuel the question “what if…”

Designed as a replacement for the venerable T-6 Texan trainer, the North American T-28 Trojan proved to be more than just a versatile primary trainer.

With a more powerful engine and reinforced wings, the North American T-28 Trojan could also double as a potent ground-support fighter. The Trojan’s capabilities were not lost on a number of smaller countries looking for an economical addition to their air forces. Armed versions of the T-28 saw action in many hot spots during the Cold War.

The Kit

Roden, a small model company based in the Ukraine, has become popular with modelers for its detailed kits, excellent decals and interesting subjects, offered in a variety of scales. Its T-28 is no exception. The 1/48th-scale Trojan has been released as a primary trainer, an upgraded T-28C and the ground-attack T-28D, complete with a nice variety of weapons.

Start with the cockpit. Paint the interior a light aircraft gray. Take care with the control columns, as they are delicate and require a steady hand while removing them from the parts tree. The addition of a couple of resin seats from Quickboost, and etched metal seat belts add the right amount of detail to the cockpit.

Next, move on to the engine. Paint the engine cylinders an aluminum color and the center engine casing a primer gray. A dark wash helps the detail pop. Attach the completed engine to the firewall.

While the cockpit and engine dry, assemble the two-piece flaps, ailerons and rudder. Along the part that makes up the lower wing, open up the small holes where the weapons pylons will be attached later. Put together the wings and set these pieces aside.

The kit’s landing gear, especially the nose-gear strut, is delicate. Invest in an aftermarket metal landing-gear set and resin tires. Paint the gear aluminum with a glossy chrome color for the oleo section of the strut itself. Tires are a deep rubber color with aluminum-colored hubs and brakes. Once complete, set the gear aside.

Sand and dry-fit the piece that forms the underside of the fuselage (part 22B). Bring the fuselage halves together, gluing the completed cockpit in place, then add 22B to complete the basic fuselage.

In order to make the Trojan sit correctly on its tricycle landing gear you need to add extra weight up front. The space between the cockpit and the engine’s firewall is perfect for enough lead fishing weights to do the job. A good rule of thumb is that if you think there’s enough, add more. Glue the engine and firewall in place and add the cowling, completing the fuselage.

Attach the wings and reach for the putty—some seams along the wing root and under the nose of the model will require filling and sanding. Aside from this area, the fit throughout the rest of the kit is good.

Heading For the Paint Barn

Camouflage for this airplane is the same standard paint scheme used on most U.S. Navy aircraft of the 1960s. The undersides and weapons pylons should be painted insignia white (FS 17875). Upper surfaces are light gull gray (FS 36440). Mask off the cockpit and paint the undersides of the airplane first.

Typical of Trojans painted in lighter colors is a black area painted along the side of the fuselage. The shape curves back from the engine exhaust to the trailing edge of the wing. It helps disguise the side of the fuselage that collects dirt and staining from constant use. Draw out the shape using the reference illustration in the instructions to create a mask and paint the area flat black. Mask off an anti-glare panel from the cockpit windscreen across the top of the engine cowling and paint that black as well.

Secret Set of Markings

Once the painting is complete, attach the rudder and horizontal stabilizer, flaps and ailerons. The flaps are designed to be fitted in a “dropped” position to give the model a more natural look. Spray a clear gloss coat over the model and it’s ready for a set of decals. The Roden kit contains markings for three different aircraft: a U.S. Air Force trainer based at Eglin Air Force Base in Florida; a camouflaged Trojan that served with the 606th Special Operations Squadron, based in Thailand during the Vietnam War; and an aircraft that was part of the CIA-backed Air Force flown by Cuban exiles during the civil war in the Congo in 1964. After the decals have been applied and a clear coat has sealed the markings, attach the landing gear, gear doors and speed brake. The main landing gear doors are a two-piece affair that benefits from carefully studying the instructions and a reference photo or two. Next, attach the pylons and weapons. There’s a good selection to choose from—rocket pods, two different types of machine gun pods, 250-pound bombs and a pair of SUU-14A bomb dispensers.

With the model nearly complete, it’s time for some moderate weathering, typical of to weather in Central Africa, before adding the last few pieces to this secret T-28. Photos of T-28s that provided ground support in the Congo show that a typical loadout consisted of machine gun pods and rockets. Once the weapons are attached, add the three-piece canopy using white glue or a cement designed for clear parts. Make sure to attach the pieces in an open position to show off all that cockpit detail.

Once the final pieces are attached, this CIA veteran T-28 is ready to shine on a clandestine section of your display shelf.