Plastic Passion

Royal Flying Corp Lieutenant Wilfred May was very nearly the Red Baron’s 81st victory.

On April 21, 1918 Manfred Albrecht Freiherr von Richtofen saw one of his squadron mates … his cousin Wolfram, in trouble. He was being chased by 22 year old Royal Flying Corp Lieutenant Wilfred “Wop” May flying one of the war’s classic fighters, a Sopwith Camel. Rolling in to help, “The Red Baron” was looking for his 81st aerial victory. As the fight descended to treetop level, bullets zipped past May’s Camel, allowing the Baron’s cousin to escape . 

One of May’s squadron mates, Captain Roy Brown, dove into the action. During the ensuing battle, the Baron’s red Fokker triplane suddenly stalled and crashed. The Baron was dead from a single round to the chest. The most famous fighter pilot of World War I had been killed. “Wop” May, the one that got away, survived.

The Kit

The Czech model company Eduard is known for its very particular attention to detail. Like its etched metal detail sets, the company’s models are known for their crisp molding and superb accuracy. Eduard’s 1/48th-scale Sopwith Camel is no exception.

Released in a number of guises, this kit includes the markings for Canadian Captain Roy Brown, credited by some as the pilot who shot down Manfred von Richthofen, the legendary “Red Baron.” Richthofen’s quarry in the April 21, 1918, encounter was Brown’s squadron mate, young Lieutenant Wilfred May, known by his childhood nickname, “Wop.”

The kit includes a small etched metal set, but Eduard also has a more elaborate version available (FE432) that adds extra interest. With an abundance of small, delicate parts, this kit requires the rapt attention of an experienced modeler.

Start with the cockpit, painting the floor and the inside walls of the fuselage a light brown wood color. The wicker pilot’s seat can be replicated with decals included in the kit or, as in this case, the etched metal detail set, along with seatbelts and shoulder harness. The main fuel tank just behind the seat is an aluminum color. The instrument panel is wood with black instruments. The decals included in the kit have individual faces that look great with the help of some decal setting solution.

Next, assemble the rotary engine. Paint the cylinders aluminum and add the wiring harness from the detail set. Paint the wires black and attach the finished engine assembly to the firewall, also painted aluminum. Finally bring everything together to complete the fuselage.

Cement the floor of the cockpit to the lower wing and attach it to the fuselage. Ailerons are supplied as separate pieces. Cement these parts to the wing with a bit of a droop for a more natural look.

At this point you can begin adding color to this classic World War I fighter. Brown and May flew in No. 209 Squadron of Britain’s Royal Flying Corps (merged with the Royal Naval Air Service and renamed the Royal Air Force on April 1, 1918). The squadron’s Sopwith Camels sported a red cowling and a dark wood color over the cockpit area. The rest of the fuselage and the wings should be painted a light tan on the undersides and a dark olive green on the upper surfaces of both wings. Give the entire model a coat of clear gloss to get it ready for decals.

For this aircraft, the traditional red, white and blue roundels appear in all six positions: the top of the upper wing, bottom of the lower wing and either side of the fuselage. Additional squadron markings are made up of three white stripes, one forward of the fuselage roundel and two behind it. Wop May had his nickname, written in white, on the left side of the cockpit and “Lucy” written on the right. To reproduce the names, white dry-transfer lettering is a perfect choice. Each letter is burnished in place. Once complete, a coat of clear flat will seal the decals and markings in place.

Now it’s time to attach the upper wing, an important part of the build that requires a lot of patience. Four individual struts hold up the wing and another four support the center section attached to the fuselage. Super glue permits a shorter setting time, but these parts can still be tricky to work with. Take…your…time. One approach is to carefully measure and cut two cubes of Styrofoam to act as spacers between the wings. This can also help keep the wing’s struts in the right position. Once the upper wing is attached, set the airplane aside to dry thoroughly.

Paint the horizontal stabilizer the same color as the wings and attach the parts to the tail. Paint the forward part of the vertical stabilizer red and use the decal for the striped markings on the rudder. Next carefully attach the landing gear assembly. The struts are painted the standard dark olive green with the wheel covers in red. The tires should be a dark gray “rubber” color. Give the model another overall clear flat coat and the Camel is ready for the next step, rigging.

The maze of cables and wires crisscrossed between the two wings of these early aircraft can look daunting. There are a number of different ways that modelers tackle this stage of the build. EZ Line by Berkshire Junction, based in Massachusetts, is a popular solution—the polymer thread is easy to use and will stretch and return to shape when it’s bumped. Old-school modelers will remember the fine art of stretching plastic sprue to create a thin thread, cut to length and glued in place. Reference material is key. Take the time to study and make a plan. Start with the struts in the center near the cockpit and work out. One of the most important things to remember is when to walk away and let things dry. Patience is the key to success.

While taking a break from stretching hot sprue, examine the prop. The simplest route is to paint the propeller a wood tan with an aluminum hub. Take a little extra time and try using a couple different shades of brown along the length of the propeller blades. To create a more realistic, laminated look, work in layers. Painting, spraying a gloss coat and adding another layer of paint until the propeller has just the right look.

With the last control cable in place, attach the prop and Wop May’s Camel, the one that got away, can take its place on your display shelf next to the Baron’s red Fokker Dr.I triplane.

P.S.: Feel free to toss that .45 on the turntable and turn up the 1966 hit by the Royal Guardsmen.

Outnumbered and outgunned, Lieutenant Royce Williams went up against powerful MiG-15s flown by Soviet pilots and had to keep quiet about it for 40 years.

Monogram released their 1/48^th scale Grumman F9F-5 Panther in 1990. While newcomer Trumpeter has released two other versions of the jet, both are earlier editions of the fighter. To build the later F9F-5, the classic Monogram kit is still the way to go.

Start with the cockpit, painting the one piece “tub” an interior Chromate Green (FS 34151). Do the same with the interior cockpit walls inside of the fuselage halves. The ejection seat is a nicely detailed four-piece affair. Paint the seat a medium sea gray and drybrush the details with an aluminum color to show some typical wear. Add a harness and seatbelts for some extra interest. Use a dark wash to highlight the raised detail on the control panels and pick out dials and switches with white paint on the tip of a toothpick.

Next, assemble the nose gear and its wheel well. At this point, leave the tire and oleo linkage for later. Cement the tailpipe and the arresting hook to the left fuselage half. Don’t forget to Add weight to the nose that will make sure the jet isn’t a “tail sitter.” Small lead fishing sinkers embedded in a piece of putty will work just fine. Attach the finished cockpit and nose gear assembly and bring the two halves of the fuselage together then set aside. 

The instructions call for adding the four machine guns in the nose before completing the fuselage. Save those parts for later, it will make painting the fuselage easier without having to mask the tiny pieces. 

After the fuselage is dry, attach the bottom half of the wing. Open up the holes that will indicate where weapons pylons will be attached. The Panther can carry a variety of bombs and rockets that are included in the kit. Follow the instructions and check your research to decide how you want to display the finished model. Add the top half of each wing and use a little putty on those seams. 

Attach the horizontal stabilizers and sand the overall jet, smoothing out the seams and getting the ready for some paint. By the end of World War II the Navy had adopted an overall Glossy Sea Blue (FS 15042) for their aircraft, a color scheme that would last well into the 1950s. Mask off the nose gear, and the cockpit, then lay down the dark blue color. After the model has dried thoroughly paint the wheel wells interior chromate green (FS 34151). Paint the area that will be covered by the jet’s speed brakes Insignia Red (FS 31136). Give the finished assembly a coat of clear gloss and set the model aside.

Next, paint and assemble the landing gear, the struts should be chromate green and the olio a chrome silver. Paint the tires a black/brown “rubber” color with aluminum hubs. Assemble the bombs and rockets. The 500lb bombs should be an olive drab color with a yellow band indicating that the weapon is “live”. Aftermarket decals of typical bomb stencils are a nice touch. The rockets should have aluminum-colored fins, a light gray body and an olive drab warhead. A dab of silver on the tip of the rocket looks like the weapon’s fuse. Give the landing gear and the weapons a quick coat of flat varnish. 

In 2022 the International Plastic Modelers Society (IPMS) released an excellent decal sheet with markings for six different Mig killers from the Korean War. One of the aircraft included is the subject of our model, the F9F-5 Panther that Lieutenant Royce Williams flew on November 18, 1952, when he downed four Soviet MiG-15s (see The Secret Dogfight from the Winter 2023 issue of Aviation History). 

Carefully and methodically add the markings to the jet. These decals look great and need only a little bit of a setting solution help them snuggle into the surface detail. Don’t rush the process. It’s tempting, as the model approaches the finish line, but be sure to walk away from time to time and let those decals set.

With the markings on and another coat of clear varnish, it’s time to attach the landing gear and the two speed brakes underneath the airplane. Cement the sway braces to the two inboard weapons pylons and attach the 500 lb. bombs, add the rockets to their pylons as well. Don’t forget the tiny bits, the pitot tube under the left wing and the four .50 caliber machine guns slipped into their place in the nose, and of course, the gunsight.

A little moderate weathering gives the jet the look it might have had aboard the USS Oriskany in November 1952. Accent a few panel lines, particularly the joint where the wings fold. A bit of soot and a dark wash, and some light paint chipping helps bring the model to life. 

Carefully mask the clear canopy pieces and paint them the same dark blue as the rest of the airplane. Cement the forward part of the canopy using glue especially made for clear plastic or white school glue. Add the rear canopy, positioning it slid back to show off the hard work in the cockpit and your Grumman F9F-5 Panther is ready to head to the catapult for its next sortie. The Panther makes a great addition to a collection of early Navy jet aircraft. 

Those of us who still build the occasional model airplane on a rainy weekend have noticed that the small hobby shops that filled their shelves with colorful boxes of airplanes, tanks and the occasional 1967 Chevy Camaro have been disappearing from the American landscape. The classic model companies of our youth—Comet, Hawk and Lindberg—have also gone away. Even 1970s and ’80s stalwarts like Revell and Monogram combined forces at one point but have since been bought by a German business group. 

Over time tastes also changed and the older, less-detailed kits became a bit passé. Modelers wanted more accurate scale models that they could build into “museum quality” reproductions. We wanted to build the P-51D, not the B version, and have a better choice of bombs or rockets and at least three different choices of markings. The heavy steel molds that produced those earlier kits wound up on warehouse shelves, waiting to be melted down. 

Or maybe not. 

In 2009 Atlantis Hobbies, based on Long Island just outside of New York City, began looking for some of those older out-of-production molds. Their mission was to produce nostalgia by bringing back the classic kits that got us all started. They quickly amassed a veritable museum of plastic model history, nostalgic items that can fill important spots in any collection. They range from rare aircraft like the P6M Seamaster and Convair 990 airliner to the Creature from the Black Lagoon and the “Rat Fink” hot rods of the 1960s. For me, Atlantis brought back memories of building kits while trying desperately to keep glue from getting on the kitchen table. I’m looking forward to the next addition to their collection and a few more memories on some rainy weekend.

One of Atlantis’s classic kits is the 1/48th-scale Curtiss JN-4D “Jenny,” originally produced by Lindberg in 1955. Lindberg was an early plastic scale-model company in the United States, producing a wide range of imitation boats and automobiles in the 1940s. Their line of airplane kits ranged from early Cold War fighters to the classic biplanes of World War I. Light on detail, which is typical of the time, the Lindberg Jenny is simple to put together and reasonably accurate. Perhaps skills learned over the years will help you make a more detailed version this time around. The model is molded in a deep green color. After cleaning up the parts in a solution of water and dish soap, adding a coat of a light-colored primer is good idea. Now it’s time to get down to business.

Like the real thing, the cockpit is a simple affair—two seats, control sticks, rudder bars and a pair of shapes that double as control panels. Paint the cockpit floor and the control panels a light tan, then lightly streak with a darker color to imitate wood grain. Paint the inside of the cockpit area a slightly darker tan. A pair of after-market resin seats with a period wicker look will take the place of the kit parts. Add a pair of simple seat belts to give cockpit some extra interest. The kit provides a couple of decals that represent the few cockpit instruments.  

It’s time to finish the fuselage. The two halves fit well, but here’s here where the kit shows a little of its age. Minor flash and sink marks from the original molds are unavoidable and need a little care. Filling and sanding these flaws will require a bit of putty and a fair amount of patience. They are most noticeable across the lower wing. Once everything is smooth, you’re ready to get painting. For this military version of the airplane, the fabric part of the fuselage (to the rear of the cockpit) should be a pale tan color. The forward section was made of metal and should be masked off and painted olive green. The edge of each cockpit was lined with leather, so paint that area a reddish-brown color and set aside the finished fuselage to dry.

Next, paint the wings, rudder and horizontal stabilizer the same light tan color as the fuselage. The struts should be a darker wood brown. Landing gear struts and the tail skid should also have that wooden look.

Cement the lower wings, horizontal stabilizer and rudder to the fuselage. Give the assembly a coat of clear gloss and you can begin to add the airplane’s markings. Decals are a simple affair, and the kit has a nice set replicating the original version that came with the old Lindberg kit. Markings for a post-war Barnstormer and a color guide that shows a more historically accurate U.S. Army Air Service color scheme are provided with the instructions.

It’s time to attach the upper wing, always a part of the build I found tricky when I was younger. Take your time as you place the struts into their positions. Carefully add the landing gear and tail skid and the Jenny starts to look like the classic trainer it is. Give the airplane another coat of clear varnish to seal the decals. 

The JN-4D is a mass of rigging, wires and cables that control ailerons and stabilizers and supporting struts that hold the whole thing together. It has a spindly, fragile look that belies the stable airplane that it was. Pay close attention to your research in order to accurately rig the airplane. Open up that big box of patience; you’ll need it and probably spend more time here than you did actually building the airplane. The results will be well worth the effort.

Start rigging from the center and work out toward the wingtips. A number of companies produce a thin thread that is easy to use with a bit of superglue. “Old School” modelers might opt for thinly stretched sprue, a time-consuming technique to master. Tackle the back half of the airplane with the cables connecting the horizontal stabilizer and rudder. Remember to step back from time to time in order to let the cement cure and not get too far ahead of yourself. Patience.

With the complex rigging complete, it’s time to add the engine, radiator and propeller. Paint the engine aluminum with a dark wash to pick out details. Paint the radiator a metallic color and the area around the outside copper. The propeller should be painted a brown “oak” and you can drybrush a darker color to simulate streaks of wood grain. The hub is steel. Many props were fitted with metal tips and a leading edge. A touch of brass colored paint does the trick.

The kit comes with two tiny clear windscreen parts. While you might want to use them, cutting two pieces from a sheet of clear plastic looks a bit more to scale. 

With the windscreens attached and the Jenny fully rigged, it’s time to find it a prime spot among your collection of early biplanes.

Atlantis gave me a couple of nostalgic weekends, and I appreciate the reminiscing and the chance to add a classic airplane to my display shelf. I look forward to getting another taste of nostalgia soon.

The early success of the Defiant’s unique armament became it’s liability.

The Boulton Paul Defiant was a curious sort of fighter. The British airplane was designed around a single motorized turret with a mean-looking set of four .303-inch Browning machine guns.

The idea—four machine guns mounted in a powered turret, spitting out 1,200 rounds per minute each—probably looked good on paper. It packed enough punch to bring down any Luftwaffe bomber. For a moment, during the desperate summer of 1940, it did just that. However, the lack of any forward-firing guns was quickly discovered to be the Achilles’ heel of the heavy fighter. While a number of turret gunners became aces during the early days of the war, the airplane ultimately was relegated to service as a trainer. A number of Defiants were put into service as night fighters, a role in which it had some success bringing down enemy bombers.

The Kit

The 1/48th-scale Airfix release is not simply an upscaled version of their retooled 1/72nd-scale kit; it’s a nicely detailed and well-engineered model of this interesting fighter.

Start with the cockpit. There is plenty of detail straight out of the box and it needs only an aftermarket set of seat belts and harness to give it that little extra oomph. Paint the interior an RAF standard interior green. The pilot’s seat should be a reddish brown to simulate the color of the Bakelite material many of the early seats were made from.

It’s All About the Turret

The turret assembly is a tiny gem all by itself. Most of the turrets were painted entirely black, with the exception of a gunmetal color for the machine guns. There is nice interior detail and an option to show the turret opened up. If you decide to show off the turret interior, do not attach the two sliding access doors (clear parts E12 and 13) until the end of the build. Once the turret is complete, set it aside.

With the cockpit complete, carefully bring together the fuselage halves. Take care to dry-fit pieces and pay close attention to the fit between the cockpit and fuselage. Use clamps and modelers tape to help seal the seams, and set aside to dry.

The wing has five major sections broken down along panel lines that will need little filler. Horizontal stabilizers, rudder and ailerons are molded as separate pieces, enabling the modeler to attach the parts in a more natural pose. Paint the interior of the landing gear bays a natural metal color. Assemble the wings and it’s time to move on to the next step.

After bringing the completed wing together with the fuselage, start masking for the camouflage scheme.

Early Wartime Camouflage 

In the late 1930s RAF Fighter Command had units paint the undersides of their aircraft with a split black and white scheme in order to aid in identifying friendly aircraft from the ground. The port side (left) would be painted black and the starboard wing white. Many units interpreted the rule to mean that the black and white scheme split down the centerline of the fuselage. Others left some areas in a natural metal and only painted the wings in black and white. Markings for this fighter reflect the latter approach, with the wings painted black and white and the forward and rear fuselage remaining natural metal. The upper surfaces were painted in a standard RAF pattern of dark earth and dark green.

Once the careful ritual of masking and painting is complete, give the model a coat of clear gloss and let it dry overnight. Mask and paint the cockpit canopy, assemble the main landing gear and paint the landing gear doors. Be careful to paint the correct door the correct color!

Now is a good time to start adding decals. This Defiant is marked as an aircraft from No. 264 Squadron based at RAF Kirton-in-Lindsey, Lincolnshire, during the early summer of 1940. Add a coat of clear flat to protect your work.

Attach the landing gear, propeller and engine exhausts. A light wash will bring out panel lines, simulate oil stains and add a little weathering. A sharp silver colored pencil can be used to add subtle paint chipping.

Final Assembly

Carefully, very carefully, install the turret. The fit is tight. Keep an eye on the four machine gun barrels. Even the best of us have had one snap, bringing the project to a dead stop. If you have elected to show off the turret interior, now is the time to add the two clear pieces (E12 and 13) that make up the entrance hatch to the guns. Attach the windscreen and the rest of the canopy. The landing lights in the wings are a two-piece affair. Paint the rear of the light bulb (E2) a chrome silver. The color will shine through the rest of the clear piece. The clear cover (E4) goes on next. Add the pitot tube and the two antennas along the underside of the fuselage.

Your Boulton Paul Defiant is finally ready to take its place next to the other Battle of Britain stalwarts in your collection.

Colonel Francis Gabreski had shot down 28 enemy aircraft but one last strafing run put his P-47 Thunderbolt into a field and “Gabby” into a POW camp.

Gabby

Franciszek Stanisław Gabryszewski, was born in a small northwest Pennsylvania town. Known to the rest of us as Francis Stanley Gabreski, he left Oil City, Penn. for college at Notre Dame and discovered an interest in aviation. His flight instructor advised him that he did not “have the touch to be a pilot.” In spite of his instructor’s evaluation, he enlisted in the US Army Air Corps soon after and finally earned his wings in March 1941.

Gabreski’s first assignment was to Wheeler Army Airfield, Hawaii, not far from the naval base at Pearl Harbor. On December 7, 1941 he flew his first combat sorties, attempting to intercept the third wave of Japanese aircraft that never materialized. 

He had read about the successes of the Royal Air Force’s No.303 Squadron, a unit comprised of expat Polish pilots. Gabreski thought to put his own Polish heritage to use in learning just how they had become so successful. He brought their lessons learned back to his new unit, the 61st Fighter Squadron, part of the 56th Fighter Group’s well known “Wolfpack.” 

Between August 24, 1943 and July 20, 1944 Gabby shot down 28 enemy aircraft. He became a leader, respected throughout the group. From 1943 to 1945 Gabreski’s 61st Fighter Squadron would chalk up an impressive 248 aerial victories and made 19 of its pilots aces. While many successful squadrons flew the more glamorous P-51 Mustang, the “Wolfpack” flew the huge, barrel shaped “muscle car” of World War II, the Republic P-47 Thunderbolt.

Building the classics

The Monogram 1/48th-scale Republic P-47D Thunderbolt first hit hobby shops in 1967. Over the years the kit has become a favorite with modelers. Good detail and relatively easy construction have helped the model hold its own against competitors costing three times as much. With a little extra effort, you can produce a very nice addition for your display shelf using this kit. 

Start with the cockpit, painting it interior chromate green. The instrument consoles are black, so you can pick out dials and switches in white. A light dry brush of aluminum for the seat and a set of seatbelts from the spares box add interest to the tight cockpit. Be careful with the gunsight molded into the fuselage halves; it’s easy to snap the piece off. Removing the gunsight and reattaching it later is a good option. Complete the fuselage with the cockpit tub securely in place and set aside to dry.

Next, assemble the wings. It’s a simple two-piece affair, but take special care with the four .50-caliber machine gun barrels molded into the wing, as they can easily break off. It’s a good idea to have a spare set on hand. This kit also has a pair of hardpoints molded into the lower piece of each wing. To get a cleaner profile, a little surgery is required. With the pylons removed, fill and sand the area. Once the wings are assembled, cement them to the fuselage. 

With the basic shape of the P-47 complete, it’s time for paint. The 56th Fighter Group began painting its fighters in camouflage colors in May 1944. Using existing Royal Air Force supplies, the unit began preparing for operations over France. Camouflage patterns were left up to the individual units, and a variety of styles resulted. The 61st Fighter Squadron Commander, Colonel Francis “Gabby” Gabreski, had many of his squadron’s fighters painted in what he called a “Luftwaffe” style. The more random and mottled paint scheme was similar to what they had seen on their German adversaries’ airplanes. Upper surfaces were medium sea gray and dark green, while the underside of the big fighter remained a natural metal. 

Gabreski’s Final Mount

Our model sports the markings of the P-47D flown by Colonel Gabreski on a July 20, 1944, ground-attack mission. During a strafing run at a Luftwaffe airfield, Gabreski made “one last pass” that was just low enough to clip the ground, damaging the fighter enough that he had to crash-land in a farmer’s field. Captured, he spent the rest of the war as a POW. 

This version of Monogram’s classic came with a set of Gabby’s markings, but the decals were showing their age (the kit is 46 years old!). The better choice is an aftermarket set. Techmod, a specialty decal company from Poland, produces a number of well-researched markings sets for a number of famous Polish aces. Set 48006 has markings for Gabreski’s last mount. 

With the decals on the model, spray a coat of flat clear varnish and set it aside. Complete the landing gear and the specially designed 200-gallon external fuel tank. This larger oval-shaped tank gave the P-47 longer “legs” and still had adequate ground clearance.

Attach the landing gear, propeller and clear two-piece bubble canopy and Gabby’s P-47D “Jug” is ready for the display shelf.

The Mitsubishi A6M Zero came as a shock to many in the west. Quick and incredibly maneuverable it could outfly nearly everything in the sky. The fighter dominated opponents in China and Burma early in the war. It’s “introduction” to American airmen came on December 7, 1941.  

Petty Officer 1^st Class Takeshi Hirano was part of the first wave of the attack in an element of three fighters from the carrier Akagi. After strafing Hickam Field, including some of the B-17s trying desperately to land, Hirano’s Zero was peppered by machine gun fire from the ground.

The pilot struggled to bring his damaged fighter down but clipped a number of trees and crashed into the entrance of Fort Kamehameha’s ordinance machine shop, killing Hirano. His was one of only 29 aircraft brought down during the attack.This particular Zero would become the object of intense scrutiny by US intelligence officers looking for kinks in the vaunted fighter’s reputation. 

The Kit

Tamiya, Inc. produces one of the most accurate scale models of the Mitsubishi A6M2 Type 21. First released in 1973 the 1/48th scale kit still holds up well against some of the higher priced models. It’s an ideal kit for the beginner, simple, well-engineered and easy to build. The more experienced modeler will be more than tempted to add some extra detail.

Construction starts with building and painting the multipart cockpit, which comes with an optional pilot figure. Tamiya cockpit green (XF-71) takes the guesswork out of what to paint the floor, sidewalls and instrument panel. A decal reproduces the dials and indicators well. The seat is flat aluminum, a belt harness from an aftermarket detail set is a nice touch. (Note: Japanese naval fighters used a single diagonal shoulder strap with a standard lap belt.) 

With the cockpit complete, paint the 940-hp Nakajima Sakae Type 12 engine flat aluminum, then use a black wash to bring out the details. Next, glue together the two-piece cowling and paint it with a mixture of semigloss black (FS-27031) and a few drops of cobalt blue, to duplicate the cowling color reportedly seen on many WWII Japanese carrier planes. Glue the completed engine into the cowling and set it aside to dry.

Next, join the fuselage parts together. Slip the finished cockpit through the fuselage’s underside, making sure it is seated correctly before applying dabs of glue to hold it in place. Next add the completed wing. The fit here is very good, but there is still a small gap at the wing root that will need attention. 

For this model we’ll add an extra detail. The type 21 Zero was the first version to have folding wings (more accurately, folding wing “tips.”). It was a new addition meant to help maximize space aboard the carrier. The Czech company Eduard makes a great resin detail set of the folded wingtips. Designed for their own A6M2 Zero kit, it will need a little extra surgery and sanding, but it can easily be made to fit the Tamiya kit. It’s a great addition to the model. Cement the horizontal stabilizers in place and set the assembly aside.  

Now that the basic construction is complete, it’s time to check over your work and fill and sand any seams. Most imperfections can be smoothed over with an application of Tamiya’s surface primer. 

Camouflage 

The A6M2 Zeros that took part in the Pearl Harbor raid were painted Imperial Japanese Navy gray-green overall. This color is available in both a spray can (Tamiya AS-29) or bottle (XF-76). Before painting, stuff facial tissue into the cockpit and wheel wells to protect them from overspray. 

The wheel wells and the inside of the main landing gear doors should be painted the same interior metallic blue-green as the cockpit. The landing gear legs are semigloss black, with dark brown “rubber” colored tires and aluminum hubs. The propellers on Pearl Harbor Zeros were unpainted aluminum, with red warning stripes near the tips. The back of the propeller was painted a flat deep brown to reduce glare for the pilot. 

The fabric-covered moveable surfaces, ailerons, rudder and horizontal stabilizers were painted a gray primer. It was thought that the weight of an additional layer of paint would alter the delicate weight and balance and effect performance. Mask off these sections and paint them a slightly darker gray.

After all the painting is complete, apply a coat of gloss varnish to provide a smooth surface for the decals to adhere to.

Bringing the Zero to Life

Hirano’s aircraft had simple, standard markings. The kit markings work well and settle into the nooks and crannies with a little decal softener. The tail number, AI-154 was cobbled together from other Zero decals that were in “the stash.” Add a mild amount of weathering, soot from the exhaust ports and a mild bit of fuel and oil staining are all that’s needed. Once the decals are complete, give the fighter a light coat of a clear flat varnish and put it aside. 

On to the canopy. There is an option for an enclosed one-piece canopy, but you’ll want to show off that cockpit detail so opt for the three-piece open version. Painting the cockpit canopy frames will be easier if you mask and paint the horizontal ribs first, then the vertical frames. Attach the clear parts with white glue and finish off your model by gluing the landing gear, gear doors, arresting hook and tail wheel into place. Don’t forget the pitot tube and small weights on the top and bottom of each of the ailerons. Last but not least, add that folding wingtip and Takeshi Hirano’s Mitsubishi A6M2 is ready for its sortie into history.   

The retooled Airfix 1/48th scale Supermarine Spitfire Mk.I finds its spot on the workbench.

Even though he died in 1937, long before the summer of 1940, aircraft designer R.J. Mitchell is often described as a hero of the Battle of Britain. Indeed, his Supermarine Spitfire is considered a veritable “saviour” of the country. It’s not surprising then that when the British model company Airfix produced its first aircraft kit in 1955, it was a Spitfire. Fifty-nine years later Airfix released another Spitfire, totally redesigned and retooled for the modern modeler.

The kit was released as a Battle of Britain–era Mk.I in early 2015. It sports a very detailed cockpit, options to show off the fighter’s eight .303-caliber Browning machine guns and no fewer than three different propellers, including the early two-bladed Aero-Products “Watts” propeller. It’s safe to say that this new Spit will be released in a number of different versions.

First bit of advice: Follow the directions. If there ever was a kit that required patience, this is it. Do the research, study the instructions and follow the steps. Carefully dry-fit parts. The fit is very good, but cleaning up parts is essential. The kit is a challenge, but the results are worth it. 

Start with the cockpit. There is lot of detail here and it really needs only an aftermarket Sutton harness and seatbelts to add that nice extra touch. Paint the cockpit RAF interior green. A reddish brown color works for the seat itself and a darker leather brown color for the seat padding. Paint the control panel black and use the cockpit gauges kit decal along with a liberal amount of decal setting solution. After the decal conforms to the raised dials and switches, seal it with a coat of clear flat. Once it has thoroughly dried, highlight the appropriate switches and knobs with small bits of paint on the end of a toothpick. 

The completed cockpit becomes a separate assembly, a “tub” that fits between the fuselage halves. Delay gluing the cockpit in place so it can be adjusted to fit into fuselage. Set the completed section aside and it’s time to move on to the Spitfire’s famous elliptical wing. 

The kit has the option to show off the fighter’s eight machine guns. Cut away the gun access panels along the top of the wing and the small doors underneath, where ammunition boxes would have been loaded. The panel covers are included as separate pieces. Paint the machine gun breeches gunmetal and the ammunition boxes aluminum. 

Once the weapons bays are complete it’s almost time to finish assembling the wing. Airfix has engineered an interesting way of attaching the landing gear. Two pieces (parts C-30 and C-31) serve as posts where the rest of the landing gear will be attached later. It’s a unique way of making sure the fighter sits correctly on its landing gear when finished. Assemble the wings, clean up and sand the edges and attach the ailerons. As separate pieces, they can be posed in a more natural position.

With the wings completed, it’s time to bring it all together. There will be some minor filling and sanding. Add the underwing oil filter pieces, engine air intake, horizontal stabilizer and rudder. Time for paint.

Invest in a set of camouflage paint masks. The adhesive vinyl masks are inexpensive and easy to use. AML Accessories from the Czech Republic has a wide range of Spitfire masks that make for a “proper” RAF camouflage pattern. Having chosen the markings that will be applied later, check to see which of the patterns—simply called “A” and “B”—are to be used. These official patterns are mirror images of each other made up of dark earth (FS30095) and a medium to dark green (FS34079). 

This Spitfire (P9386) will be displayed in the markings of Brian Lane, commander of No. 19 Squadron. By the late Summer of 1940, many fighters had their undersides painted a simple solid color sometimes called “sky type S,” a sort of pale bluish green (approximately FS34583).

Once the painting is complete, spray an overall clear gloss and set the model aside to dry. Use this time to assemble the landing gear, tail wheel and engine exhaust shrouds. Mask and paint the canopy pieces as well. 

Squadron Leader Lane’s Spitfire sported a bright yellow spinner, said to be a holdover from when the airplane had been part of a flying training unit. Paint and assemble the spinner and propeller, then set it aside. EagleCals decal sheet EC157 is a great set of markings for four different Battle of Britain Spitfires, including Lane’s Spitfire Mk.I, marked with the squadron code letters “QV-K.” Lane was credited with shooting down a Messerschmitt Me-110 in this aircraft on September 7, 1940. A seven-victory ace, he was known as an exceptional leader. Unfortunately he would be reported missing on December 13, 1942, last seen chasing two Focke-Wulf Fw-190s. 

Carefully begin the process of adding the markings to the aircraft. A small amount of setting solution makes the decals conform to every rivet and panel line, helping create the look of having been painted on. Add some light weathering, some wear to the metal, especially along the left wing root where pilots scrambled into their aircraft. A few oily streaks underneath, a bit of exhaust staining and this Spitfire has the look of a busy British defender. 

Now carefully attach the landing gear using the posts on the wing assembled earlier, taking care to make sure they have the proper angle. This Spitfire will be shown with the left-side crew entry door opened to show off all that cockpit detail. The kit-supplied door is one of the few pieces lacking detail. An aftermarket resin door from Ultracast is the perfect solution. The selection of clear canopy parts includes canopies for a number of different Spitfire marks. The clear parts are crisp and very clear. Be sure to pick the right canopy and add the rest to your parts box.

With the canopy, landing gear and radio antenna attached, Lane’s Spitfire is ready to take its place alongside your collection of Battle of Britain combatants.

A little extra attention can even make this “vintage” kit as sharp as the the original Bell X-3 Stiletto.

In the interest of full disclosure, let me say this up front: The Lindberg X-3 is a dinosaur of a kit. With the exception of a fresh set of decals, this model is exactly the same as when it was first released in the late 1950s. It was a time when many models were merely toys that you could put together, rather than the detailed reproductions we build today. Amazingly, this kit is one of only a very few offerings of this sleek, futuristic X-plane. Perhaps its lackluster performance in the air is a reason it’s not been a more popular subject. Nonetheless, we’ll give this one a try. Dust off the parts box, and get your scratch building skills in order.  

First things first, the cockpit. A well-stocked parts box is essential here. There isn’t a traditional “canopy” (the airplane had a unique downward-firing ejection seat that is also part of the system that lifts the pilot, seat and all, into the cockpit). Measure and cut away an opening in the bottom of the fuselage beneath the cockpit area. Research material at this point is invaluable. The book Skystreak, Skyrocket, & Stiletto: Douglas High-Speed X-Planes, by Scott Libis, is an excellent resource.

Side consoles and the forward instrument panel come from the parts box. Stock plastic sheet will form the coaming over the forward control panel. You will have to fashion a yoke instead of a stick. The seat needs help as well. Stretched sprue or wire form the “cage” that surrounds the seat. Once you’ve added a harness and seat belts, the completed seat will be attached to rails that extend down from the rear cockpit bulkhead. You’ll have to build that bulkhead as well. Set aside the seat for now, as it will be one of the last steps in completing the jet.

The intakes are just simple holes in the fuselage. Thin plastic sheet can help create the illusion of an intake “trunk.” Go ahead and assemble the engine. While you could cut open panels to show off a nicely detailed power plant, you’ll be better served by using it for structural support. The jet also needs a pair of exhaust cans, an easy scratch build from the plastic barrel of an old ballpoint pen.

The thin high-aspect-ratio wing of the Stiletto was smooth and sharp. You’ll want to sand down some of the heavy raised detail. The wing is designed to be inserted from the inside of the fuselage through two slots. This should be your last step as you bring the fuselage halves together. Don’t forget to pack the nose with some weight to get the aircraft to sit on its landing gear correctly. The fit will need help, so filling and sanding will take up a little time. Remember the kit is more than 50 years old!

The insides of the landing gear bays are a natural aluminum color, as is the gear. This is another area that would benefit from some scratch building and additional detail. After all that hard work with the cockpit, it’s up to you.

I prefer to paint the glossy white finish of the fuselage first, sealing it with a coat of gloss. I find it easier to mask off the fuselage in order to paint the wings their natural metal color. Overall the X-3, like other X-planes of the time, had a clean glossy finish. There would have been little weathering at all. Check your references when it comes to markings. The X-3 flew tests for both the U.S. Air Force and the National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics (NACA, NASA’s predecessor), so there are minor differences in markings. There were also minor changes depending on just what was on the “test card.”

With markings applied and another coat of gloss finish, your X-3 is ready for the dry lakebed at Edwards AFB. You can see the real deal, the sole X-3 built, in the Research & Development Gallery at the National Museum of the U.S. Air Force in Dayton, Ohio.

This Avenger wasn’t looking for the fictitious Thanos, the Grumman TBF/M Avenger torpedo bomber had a more dangerous enemy in mind.

Designed as a replacement for the aging TBD Devastator, the Grumman TBF/M Avenger was arguably the finest torpedo bomber of the war. Best known for its combat record in the Pacific, the Avenger also proved to be a potent weapon in the Atlantic. Operating from small escort carriers, Avengers hunted U-Boats using aerial depth charges, conventional bombs and rockets. Avengers were directly responsible for over thirty submarines and served as the “hunter” part of hunter-killer teams scouring the Atlantic.

These “sub-killing” bombers had a unique look that makes for an interesting addition to the collection.

The Kit

The South Korean based model company, Academy, Re-released the 1996 Accurate Miniatures TBF-1C Avenger in 2013.  With a lot of detail and good fit, it was well received by modelers looking for a 1/48^th scale replica of the famed torpedo bomber.

This Avenger comes with a choice of weapons, the standard Mk. XIII torpedo, 500lb general purpose bombs and Mk 54 depth charges. Perfect for this U-Boat hunting airplane.

Following the instructions, start with the cockpit painting it an interior Chromate Green (FS 34151). There is plenty of detail from the cockpit through to the bombardier’s station and the rear gunner’s turret. Paint consoles and electronic boxes black, white dials and switches. Add seatbelts and a harness to the pilot’s seat and to the small bench for the bombardier located in the cramped lower part of the airplane, just aft of the bomb bay. The bomb bay itself is part of the entire assembly that runs the length of one of the fuselage sides. Finally, after all that detail, painting and assembly, bring the fuselage halves together and set aside the completed fuselage.

The wing halves, rudder and horizontal stabilizers are a much simpler part of the build. Cement the parts together and set aside.

The unique powered turret

Next, it’s time to build the Avenger’s gun turret. Do your research. This part of the model is not for the novice. The turret, with its .50 caliber machine gun is a complicated little model in itself, comprising ten separate parts. Putting it all together requires extra patience. Take your time and dry fit pieces before final assembly.

Paint most of the pieces interior green. The machine gun should be a steel color with the ammunition chute aluminum. A brown leather armrest on the gunner’s seat, along with a set of seat belts add to the detail that’s already there. After the interior is finished put together the two clear parts of the turret with white glue or a cement designed for clear plastic.

The kit comes with a set of adhesive masks cut to the size of each pane of glass on the Avenger’s large greenhouse of a cockpit canopy. Gently peel off the mask bits and position them in their spots indicated in the instructions. For the turret, carefully stuff the interior of the completed ball shape with a small wad of paper towel and paint the piece the same dark gull gray color (FS 36231) as the upper part of the completed aircraft. Set the pieces of the turret aside to dry thoroughly.

Mask off the cockpit and bomb bay to prepare the model for painting. This Avenger depicts one of the aircraft from VC-55 on the USS Block Island.

Based aboard small, fast escort carriers, the aircraft were painted Dark Gull Gray on the upper surfaces and white underneath with the white color extending up along the sides of the fuselage. The pattern is a marked difference from the variety of blue schemes seen in the Pacific theater. Mask and paint the fuselage and then attach the wings and horizontal stabilizers, painting along the way. Give the model a coat of clear gloss to get it ready for the decals.

While the aircraft dries, assemble the tires and landing gear. Struts are all painted white including the landing gear bays. Paint the propeller black with a silver hub and white or pale gray “cuffs” at the base of each propeller blade.

Cement the bombs into the bomb bay with the two aerial mines forward and the two general purpose bombs to the rear. The bomb bay doors come as two pieces but will need to be split to pose the doors in an open position. Use a razor saw to cut the doors apart and attach them to the door struts.

Final details 

Attach the landing gear and gear doors making sure the airplane sits correctly and give the model a coat of flat varnish to seal the decals.

Carefully, very carefully place the gunner’s turret in its position on the airplane. The fit is extremely tight so take care in adding the completed turret. Next, add the rest of the canopy using a cement designed for clear plastic. Be sure to pose the cockpit open to show off all that detail and hard work. Last, attach the “tiny bits,” the distinct upward canted pitot tube, clear pieces for the red and green formation lights, the delicate surface radar antenna beneath each wing and this TBF-1C Avenger is ready to head out to hunt U-Boats or just start a conversation on the display shelf.